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2020年10月28日2020年10月28日

Young YouTube influencers are increasingly marketing junk food to fellow kid

From CNN/ By Ryan Prior

https://www.cnn.com/2020/10/26/health/youtube-influencers-junk-food-wellness/index.html

Popular YouTube videos made by influencers often include product placement of unhealthy foods, blurring the line between advertisement and entertainment.

(CNN)Kid influencers on YouTube are marketing junk food and sugary beverages to their fellow kids, and they’re racking up billions of page views, according to a new study published Monday in the journal Pediatrics.

The study demonstrates how advertisers are seeking to take advantage of new avenues to market their wares to children.

“We should approach YouTube influencer videos with skepticism, even with videos that seem to be educational or kid-friendly,” said senior author Marie Bragg, an assistant professor of public health nutrition with joint appointments at New York University’s School of Global Public Health and Langone Medical Center.

The researchers analyzed videos posted by the five most-watched kid influencers on YouTube in 2019. The influencers were between the ages of 3 and 14. The study team noted whether the influencers played with toys or consumed food, such as McDonald’s meals, keeping tabs on the amount of time they spent on a given activity.

Of the 418 YouTube videos that fell within their search criteria, the researchers found that 179 of the videos featured food or drinks, with 90% of those instances showing unhealthy branded items, such as fast food.

Those specific YouTube videos were viewed more than a billion times.

A new kind of marketing

Keeping track of what types of food advertising children are exposed to is important. That’s because dietary habits during childhood can have a significant effect on their likelihood of their becoming obese or developing cardiovascular disease and Type 2 diabetes later in life, according to past research.

And while much food advertising takes place on television, companies have increasingly turned to the growing audiences on social media sites such as YouTube.

One of the most important aspects of the study, Bragg said, was simply bringing attention to the fact that YouTube’s most popular under-18 hosts are frequently promoting products directly, and kids are often glued to the message.

“This kind of marketing is uncharted territory for families and researchers,” she said. Parents “may think they’re setting their kids down to watch another kid play in their backyard,” not children promoting Chicken McNuggets for a fee.

That’s particularly true during the pandemic with parents turning to screen time to keep kids occupied when there are fewer in-person activities and parents are working from home.

“Child exposure to unhealthy food, beverage, and other content on YouTube needs to be regulated,” said Dr. Jenny Radesky, lead author of the American Academy of Pediatrics policy statement on digital advertising to children, via email. “‘Host-selling’ — the practice of trusted characters promoting products within their own videos — needs to stop on YouTube, because it’s not allowed on TV.” Radesky was not involved in the study.

One major type of YouTube influencer video, which can feature food, is the phenomenon known as “unboxing videos,” in which people open up boxes of products while they narrate or comment on what they’re doing. The videos can blur the line between a product review and advertising outright.

“While the adult digital ecosystem is driven by ad revenue and persuasive design, that doesn’t mean that children’s digital spaces should be,” added Radesky, who is also an assistant professor of pediatrics at the University of Michigan. “We need a new children’s design code of ethics in the US.”

One popular YouTube channel, Ryan’s World, which was one of the five major influencer channels featured in the study, boasts more than 26 million subscribers. It features videos with food and stars a young boy who frequently plays with toys on screen.

“Parents shouldn’t allow their children to watch unboxing videos or other influencer content,” said Josh Golin, executive director of the Campaign for a Commercial-Free Childhood, via e-mail.

“Young children view the stars of these videos as peers and friends and don’t understand that the reason YouTube stars like Ryan are so enthusiastic about products featured in there is because they are stealth marketers.”

These videos can be particularly successful because viewers feel as though they have a personal or friendly relationship with the star.

“Research shows that kids who watch these videos are more likely to nag their parents for products — and throw a tantrum if they say no — than if they watch traditional TV commercials,” Golin said.

The emerging awareness around YouTube influencers and food product placement in their videos could stoke change in the industry, as stars continue cultivating their relationship with their fans.

“Ryan’s World cares deeply about the well-being of our viewers and their health and safety is a top priority for us,” said Susan Yin, a spokesperson for Sunlight Entertainment, the production company for Ryan’s World, via email.

“As such, we strictly follow all platforms terms of service, as well as any guidelines set forth by the FTC (Federal Trade Commission) and laws and regulations at the federal, state, and local levels.”

She said that Ryan’s World “welcomes” the new study from the American Academy of Pediatrics.

“As we continue to evolve our content we look forward to ways we might work together in the future to benefit the health and safety of our audience,” Yin said.

In a statement, a YouTube spokesperson noted that the company has invested significantly in the creation of the YouTube Kids app, which does not allow paid promotional content and has clear guidelines that restrict categories such as food and beverage from advertising on the app.

The spokesperson also pointed to the terms of service for the main YouTube app, which state that children must always have permission from their parent or guardian before using the service.

CNN also reached out to McDonald’s and SNAC International, the leading trade association for the snack industry. (“SNAC” stands for snacking, nutrition, and convenience.)

A new law to protect children

The Federal Trade Commission and state authorities should strengthen regulations concerning product placement on YouTube videos that feature young children, the NYU researchers argued.

The FTC expects “disclosures of material connections to the extent food companies are sponsoring influencers,” said Nicole Drayton, an agency spokesperson, adding that in order to monitor their children’s online behaviors,” parents should use whatever parental controls that are available to them.”

Bragg also pointed to the Kids Internet Design and Safety Act; the legislation was introduced by Democratic US Sen. Ed Markey of Massachusetts and US Sen. Richard Blumenthal of Connecticut in March.

The legislation would build on protections in the Children’s Online Privacy Protection Act, passed in 1998, before the rise of YouTube and other online platforms such as TikTok and Snapchat.

The bill seeks to protect children from the effects of influencer marketing as well as design features such as auto-play, which can increase the amount of time kids spend on screens or using apps.

The KIDS Act would ban auto-play settings and push alerts on sites frequented by kids and teens. And it would prohibit websites from promoting unboxing videos or content in which hosts sell products to children. The bill would also make it illegal for sites to recommend content to kids or young teens involving nicotine, tobacco or alcohol.

Those new regulations would be particularly important in helping communities historically at risk of exposure to advertising of junk food and sugary beverages, as well as the long-term health risks those products can pose.

Although the researchers didn’t focus on how the food and beverage product placement affects dietary choices, they called for more research on it.

“Companies consider Black youth as cultural trend setters,” Bragg said. “They purposely target Black youth with these sorts of products.”

Whenever possible, she recommended that parents limit the amount of time their children spend watching YouTube, even for content that appears to be kid-friendly or educational. And Bragg argued that pediatricians can help inform parents about the ways marketing can be disguised as entertainment.

“If your child uses YouTube or YouTube Kids,” Radesky said, “know that they are going to be the target of a lot of marketing they probably won’t understand. They might be highly influenced by favorite YouTubers, and not realize their favorite videos are essentially commercials. Help them be more savvy.”

2020年10月28日2020年10月28日

Captivating case files of the wedding photo detective

The Daily Mail/By KATHRYN KNIGHT

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-8882435/Found-abandoned-charity-shops-old-wedding-snaps-hold-host-secrets.html

Charlotte Sibtain, 33, has more than 400 snapshots of strangers’ weddings
She has collected them from antique shops, car boot sales and markets
Her work has uncovered stories ranging from lifelong friendship to infidelity and even murder

Like many former brides, Charlotte Sibtain has a number of beautiful wedding photographs dotted around her London home.

Black and white, and in all shapes and sizes, they compose a striking montage of a day which, traditionally, is the happiest of a couple’s life.

Charlotte, 33, has been married for four years but none of these photographs is of her own nuptials.

Instead, they are snapshots of strangers’ weddings — more than 400 in total — which she has lovingly collected from antique shops, car boot sales and markets over the years.

Sonya Diana Fleur Paynter on her wedding day, at St Peter’s Eaton Square on December 1959. Pictured with stepfather Paull Hill

But Charlotte does not see them as people she has never met. ‘I may not know them, but to me they’re still special,’ she says.

‘They’ve got married, they’ve got dressed up. Then these pictures have been tossed away and discarded.

‘So I try to rescue them, look after them and then, in an ideal world, give them back to their families.’

Charlotte’s hobby has led to her being dubbed ‘the wedding detective’.

No wonder, considering her painstaking sleuthing has resulted in many a discarded album being re-united with delighted relatives.

Her work has uncovered some heart-warming — and in some cases eye-popping — stories, ranging from lifelong friendship to infidelity and even murder and led to her becoming the subject of a three-part series on Radio 4.

‘What I love about wedding photographs and albums is that behind these individuals from decades ago are people we can all identify with — the slightly odd uncle, the grumpy bridesmaid, the over-enthusiastic mother of the bride,’ Charlotte says.

‘I also like the fact that when you look at the photographs you can tell what has been going on during that period — in wartime you can see evidence of rationing and the dress fabric is more make-do.’

Brought up in Brighton alongside her older sister, Charlotte has always had a lifelong love of history courtesy of her parents, who worked in education and were avid antique collectors.

She was raised in a house she describes as ‘stuffed to the rafters’ with everything from ancient ice skates to old cameras and sewing machines, and spent many happy hours as a child at antique markets and car boot sales — a hobby she carried into adulthood.

Charlotte Sibtain has a number of beautiful wedding photographs dotted around her home

Her unusual collection was kick-started 15 years ago, when, then aged 18, Charlotte found a small stack of black-and-white wedding photographs nestled between some 1970s postcards in a dusty corner of an antique market in her home town.

‘They were simple examples of 1940s and 1950s weddings and very typical of the time — you could even say they were unremarkable,’ she says.

‘But to me, it felt each one was unique and special: the dresses, the flowers, the venues, the guests. Each picture told its own personal story.’

Moreover, coming from a family where photos are treasured and kept in ‘countless’ albums, she was saddened by the way these pictures had been cast adrift.

‘I thought it was such a shame that they’d ended up discarded in their box somewhere, unappreciated and not looked at,’ she recalled.

‘So I bought three and framed them and put them up on my wall.’

Little did she know it would be the start of a longstanding passion: Charlotte now has hundreds of vintage photographs and wedding albums in her South-East London home, hunted down from charity shops and flea markets to car boot sales.

Ranging from the 1920s to the 1960s, all human life is here, from the four large prints of a wealthy family wedding in the ‘Roaring Twenties’ — all velvet and fur and spats on the groom’s shoes — to a snapshot from a working-class wedding dated 1910 which features the family on dining-room chairs placed on a rug in the middle of the street.

Her detective work began when she realised that one of her albums, from the 1950s, had the names of the bride and groom inscribed at the front — inspiring Charlotte to track down their descendants in North London and hand it over.

‘They were stunned at first because they hadn’t seen it for more than 20 years and had no idea how it got lost, but they were so thrilled to see it,’ she recalls.

‘It made me think this could be a thing I could do more often. But it’s hard as often there is so little information.’

It’s certainly no easy task: often armed with little other than a hastily scribbled date or location of the wedding on the back of a photograph which has come loose from an album — or sometimes just the name of the bride or groom — Charlotte has frequently had to piece together tiny fragments of information and use her instinct.

Since that first reunion she has tracked more families, using local libraries, censuses and newspaper archives, each one with their own compelling story — although arguably none more gripping than that behind the two photographs she pulled at random from a pile earlier this year and which featured in the first episode of the three-part Radio 4 series.

Marked with the name of a local press agency, one featured the name of the wedding venue, St Peter’s Church in London’s Belgravia, while the other was inscribed on the back with the words ‘Paull’ — spelt with a distinctive two ‘ls’ — and Sonya, the ‘impossibly glamorous’ bride.

Sonya Diana Fleur Paynter on her wedding day to Timothy (Tim) on December 1959

The photographs reeked of Hollywood glamour, and turned out to be suitably high society, the December 1959 wedding of Timothy and Sonya Bryant.

Little could Charlotte have known that from this she would uncover a trail that took her to West Cornwall and an extraordinary story involving Einstein, Marconi, landed gentry in decline, infidelity and a trial for murder.

Sonya was the granddaughter of Colonel and Ethel Paynter, who owned Boskenna House in West Cornwall, a mansion and 2,000-acre estate that became a magnet for the rich and famous in the 1920s and 1930s and which was the inspiration for author Mary Wesley’s coming-of-age novel The Camomile Lawn.

Such was Boskenna’s allure that guests as distinguished as Lawrence of Arabia, Albert Einstein and D.H. Lawrence were all drawn there, as well as the Italian radio pioneer Marconi, who is said to have fallen in love with Sonya’s mother, Betty.

Years later, Betty would be caught up in another drama when Paull Hill — her second husband and the man who had proudly walked 19-year-old Sonya down the aisle in 1959 — was charged with murdering his wife’s much younger lover.

Scandalously, aged 61, she’d started an affair with Scott Tuthill who, at 25, was 36 years her junior.

According to court reports from the time, Scott died in 1979 after he was shot in the leg by a 12-bore shotgun — fired by Paull after he tried to confront Betty at their house.

At his subsequent trial, Paull pleaded self-defence — and the jury believed him.

‘The jury was out for just an hour before the foreman gave the judge the ‘not guilty’ verdict,’ recounts Charlotte.

‘Hill walked from the dock out of the court doors. He said: ‘I would do it again without the slightest hesitation.’ ‘

The discovery left her ‘staggered’, she confides.

‘We went from a picture with little detail of a couple in a church in 1959 all the way back to the golden age of a country house in Cornwall. And then we come to a murder,’ she says.

Brian and Jean Staddon got married at Windsor Parish Church in September 1959

So what happened to Betty’s daughter Sonya? She and her husband, Tim, had two sons, the first born a year after the wedding.

But their relationship must have broken down quickly, because Tim remarried seven years later. He died in America in 1997, aged 67. Sonya died in 1998, aged just 58.

Charlotte has since returned the photograph to Timothy and Sonya’s two sons — who didn’t want to take part in the documentary.

Not all the stories Charlotte has unravelled proved to be quite so dramatic, but they’re certainly enticing and heart-warming, like the June 1952 Deptford wedding of George and Kathleen Sewell.

Charlotte found their wedding album in a charity shop several years ago, and it has long been one of her favourites.

‘It was so lovingly put together, with these really lovely photos of this very smiley happy couple, along with some wedding telegrams and honeymoon receipts.

It gives a real sense of the couple they were,’ she says.

After sourcing their marriage certificate, Charlotte was able to ascertain that the 36-year-old bride was a nursing officer, while her older 52-year-old groom had marked his profession as ‘film director’.

‘That caught my attention,’ says Charlotte.

In fact, George was something of a pioneer: a passion for moving pictures had been forged in the unlikely setting of the World War I trenches, when, aged 18 and serving in the London Regiment, he had volunteered to play background music on the piano when a silent movie was screened for the entertainment of the troops.

By 1932, he had written the first book on amateur film-making.

The same decade, he founded the Institute of Amateur Cinematographers, an organisation that exists to this day.

The wedding of George and Kathleen Sewell in June 1952 in Deptford

He was held in such high esteem by his peers, that he was given a glowing obituary in MovieMaker magazine following his death in 1971 aged 72.

‘George is dead — it seems unbelievable as he has been part of the movie-making scene as long as there has been a movie-making scene,’ the obituary reads.

‘In fact, he was the ringleader of the small group that started it way back in the 1920s.’

What’s more, some of his filmmaking also survives to this day, including a short film called The Gaiety Of Nations about the origins and effects of the Great War.

‘It was made 91 years ago but shows real expertise and love of the medium,’ says Charlotte. ‘It was spine-tingling watching it.’

After the war, George became a journalist and professional director, while he and Kathleen continued to live in the Middlesex home they moved into when they married.

Sadly, as the couple had no children, following Kathleen’s death in 2013 there was no one to take ownership of their album which, like so many others, was likely to have been lost through house clearance.

Unable to find any living relatives, Charlotte ultimately handed the album over to the Institute of Amateur Cinematographers.

‘It felt like the right place to go and I think George in particular would have been pleased,’ she says.

She found a home, too, for the wedding album of Brian and Jean Staddon, who had married at Windsor Parish Church in September 1959 and whose pictures had been taken by a well-known local photographer Kingsley Jones — a useful starting point for research.

Like Kathleen and George, the couple had no children, but after learning that Brian had died in Weymouth in 2017, Charlotte contacted the funeral directors who had organised his funeral and were put in touch with Philip and Maureen de Havilland, who had overseen the arrangements and turned out to be the couple’s best friends of 40 years standing.

Charlotte learned the story of their enduring friendship, which started in 1977 when Brian and Philip both started work as prison officers at a prison in Portland.

The couples loved to socialise together, while Jean and Brian had lovingly adopted the role of godparents to two of the de Havillands’ daughters.

‘Jean had made both their wedding cakes and decorated their wedding car,’ says Charlotte.

It was the de Havillands whom Jean asked to accompany her and Brian on a valedictory cruise on the QE2 after learning in 2006 she had terminal stomach cancer and, following her death the following year, the de Havillands continued to look after her widower.

‘They were best friends who were more like family,’ says Charlotte.

‘Brian and Jean just came across as lovely ordinary people who were so in love with each other until the end — and giving their friends their wedding album felt like the right thing to do.

And while she confides that parting with her photographs can be difficult, she hopes nonetheless to do it many more times in the future.

‘You do become attached,’ she admits. ‘At the same time, I don’t think of myself as their owner but their custodian.’

With the rapid advance of technology there is, of course, every chance that in due course the wedding album could become a thing of the past, as young newlyweds increasingly place their memories on their laptops and mobile phones.

‘It kills me to say it but there is definitely less emphasis on albums — although I think people still like to have a framed photograph or two in their home,’ Charlotte says.

Either way, she has one message for those newlyweds picking up their prints from the developer.

‘I really encourage everybody to label their photos,’ she says. ‘One day someone will thank you for it.’

The second of three parts of The Wedding Detectives can be heard on Radio 4 today at 11am.

Last week’s episode can be found on BBC Sounds.

2020年10月28日

Winners of the 2020 Aerial Photography Awards Highlight Beauty Seen From the Sky

https://mymodernmet.com/aerial-photography-awards-2020/

By Jessica Stewart on October 26, 2020

“The Frame” by Bachir Moukarzel. First place, Constructions.

In its first edition, the Aerial Photography Awards has made its mark by revealing the strength of its winners. Photographers around the world used drones, helicopters, kites, balloons, and airplanes to capture unique views of the planet. And, in the end, the jury selected 106 winning photos across 22 categories.

Thousands of photographers from 65 countries submitted their work for consideration, with the Abstract, Architecture, Constructions, Daily life, Landscapes, Sports, Travel, and Wildlife categories proving to be the most popular. Using a one to 20 ranking system, each photograph was scored and these scores were used not only to determine category winners, but also to select the top photographers.

Belgian photographer Sebastien Nagy took home the title of Aerial Photographer of the Year for his strong showing in the competition. Six of his aerial photographs won awards, including First Place in the Abstract, Cityscape, and Hotels category. The victory was particularly meaningful for Nagy, as it was the first time he’d participated in a photo competition.

“I didn’t think I would win anything and it was mostly for fun,” says Nagy. “So I was very surprised when I heard the good news. It was a bit hard to believe at first as it was the Grand-Prix, but I did feel a real joy and pride. To be named first in a contest where the theme is what we love most, our passion, is incredible and very satisfying! This award made me want to test myself in other things and why not, to be able to judge others in my turn one day.”

Check out more winners from the inaugural Aerial Photography Awards.

“Spanish Rainbow” by Sebastien Nagy. First place, Cityscapes.

Aerial Photo of Pedestrians with Umbrella Crossing the Street

“Umbrella Crossing” by Daniel Bonte. First place, Patterns.

“Skyggnisvatn” by Sebastian Müller. First place, Landscapes.

Fishing Boat Dropping Next That Forms the Shape of a Face

“The Lady of the Sea” by Duy Sinh. First place, Daily Life.

“LEGO Town” by Andrea Caruso. Second place, Cityscapes

Aerial Photo of the Tatacoa Desert in Colombia

“Tatacoa Desert” by Johan Vandenhecke. First place, Abstract.

“Abstract Greece” by Sebastien Nagy. First place, Architecture

“Anchovy Catching” by Thien Nguyen. Second place, Daily Life.

Ship Carrying Freight Through Icy Waters of Finland

“Fairway of the Gulf of Finland” by Alexander Sukharev. First place, Transportation.

Aerial Photography Awards: Website | Facebook | Instagram

My Modern Met granted permission to feature photos by the Aerial Photography Awards via Photo Publicity.

2020年10月28日

时尚艺术慈善夜于上海新天地朗廷酒店温情举行后疫情时代时尚的责任、艺术的力量、人心的温暖

（上海，2020年10月24日） 2020年以不平凡的方式开启，给予了我们重新思考的机会。而上海新天地朗庭酒店，在经过时间的洗礼与沉淀，优雅迈入第十年。在这不平凡的时刻，上海新天地朗廷酒店携手上海新天地在官方指导单位上海时装周全力支持下，携手具有世界价值观的中国艺术家们打造“时尚艺术慈善月”，以五场不同主题的创意线下活动与世界无界相连，在疫情期间以中国艺术家与时尚领袖为代表，传达艺术与时尚蕴涵的正能量，诠释国粹文化。10月24日，随着时尚艺术慈善夜的成功举办，为期近一个月的时尚艺术慈善之旅在众多行业领袖以及慈善伙伴的见证下温情落幕。

五场主题活动聚焦时尚艺术诠释世界沟通无界

时尚艺术慈善月的五场主题活动分别与四位不同类型的艺术家携手举办。知名高定时装设计师陈野槐 Grace Chen 2020年10月8日至10月10日期间展出“Unity 融”系列，穿越地域将「摩登敦煌」的大秀带到上海时尚地标新天地，传递出中西合璧、大气优雅的风格，在其三天的私享走秀期间，Grace Chen品牌向上海愿望成真慈善基金会（Make A Wish）积极奉献爱心，为整个月的慈善活动拉开序幕。极具东方特色的全球影响力时尚博主Wenjun以其独特的魅力联动国际品牌，在上海新天地朗廷酒店展开为期两天以「世界跨界之旅」为主题的媒体、买手、粉丝见面会，分享其独特的时尚哲学以及作为知名博主传递正能量的责任感。

才华横溢的时尚摄影师LIN以其细腻的拍摄手法，时尚的视角将疫情期间一群中国艺术家及时尚领袖在疫情期间震慑心灵的动人故事以细腻的镜头形象生动地诠释，一场精彩鲜活，充满生命力量的时尚摄影展拉开帷幕以“世界即现在”为主题，联动时尚领军人物LVMH集团大中华区总裁吴越先生、国际知名画家吕忠平老师、国际著名指挥家汤沐海老师，国际知名跨界艺术家王小慧老师、知名高定时装设计师陈野槐（Grace Chen）女士、钢琴家宋思衡老师、新锐钢琴演奏家万捷旎、流行音乐歌手，音乐制作人刘力扬、青年新锐艺术家朱丽晴以及上海新天地朗廷酒店董事总经理侯乐邦 (Robert C. Hauck) 先生合作。

朱丽晴则以在疫情期间传递正能量的灵感呈现其全新创作「献」，致敬所有抗疫英雄，竞标认购后所得金额将全数捐赠给本次活动慈善伙伴品牌的上海愿望成真慈善基金会（Make A Wish）。毕业于耶鲁大学的新锐钢琴家万捷旎以2020疫情期间的领悟及动人故事谱写成专属的灵魂钢琴曲，在现场演绎音乐的无穷治愈力量，以音符表达正能量与生命的希望。

缘起公益，为更多许愿儿童的愿望付出力量的群星之夜

时尚艺术慈善夜于2020年10月24日在上海新天地朗廷酒店温情举办，其宗旨在为疫情后期，积极投入公益慈善事业且做出贡献的艺术家及时尚领袖打造共襄盛举的盛典，传递分享此刻的积极态度与正能量，为慈善伙伴上海愿望成真慈善基金会（Make A Wish）给予更大的支持，为许愿儿童的愿望付出努力。

在活动现场，各界艺术翘楚，时尚领袖、精英企业及名人贵宾共聚，荣耀时刻，带来了一场耳目一新的盛典，「摩登敦煌」高定走秀、万捷旎2020疫情音乐日记演奏、慈善表彰以及刘力扬公益主题曲《WORK for Light》特别演出，精彩生动地诠释了艺术与时尚给人们的生活带来的美好希望，这为正在经历疫情考验和挑战的人们，带来正面的希望与能量。

2020“时尚艺术慈善月”诠释后疫情时代时尚的责任、艺术的力量、人心的温暖

在2020年这样特殊的时刻，时尚艺术慈善月收获了各界的全力支持，包括上海时装周、上海新天地、协办单位欣翰国际文化传媒（Dream Worker Communications）、战略合作伙伴1664、指定合作单位毛戈平、阿斯顿马丁 (Aston Martin)、Sephora、两两（Leanon）的鼎力支持，这些企业努力在践行企业社会责任，共同诠释世界沟通无界的理念。

2020年10月27日2020年10月28日

Meet the first woman to run for president

The hill/ by Morgan Chalfant

https://thehill.com/homenews/campaign/518301-meet-the-first-woman-to-run-for-president

The first woman to formally declare herself a candidate for president of the United States did not build a national campaign or make a splash in debates. In fact, when Victoria Woodhull ran for office in 1872, she could not even vote for herself.

Woodhull, an unconventional social reformer who advocated for “free love” and women’s suffrage, was nominated to run for president by the newly established Equal Rights Party. Her run came decades before the ratification of the 19th Amendment that gave women the right to vote.

Born Victoria Claflin, she came from humble roots in Homer, Ohio. She received essentially no formal education, though she and her sister Tennessee Claflin worked as traveling medical clairvoyants.

Woodhull fell ill at the age of 14 and eventually married the man who treated her, Canning Woodhull, when she was 15. He was her first of three husbands, one who didn’t bother to stop womanizing.

“She was fully aware at that time that there were men who had affairs like her husband and women were just stuck,” said Teri Finneman, an associate professor in the University of Kansas’s school of journalism and author of “Press Portrayals of Women Politicians.” “She found that to be grossly unfair and hypocritical, and that would help to greatly influence her views during the campaign.”

Woodhull and her sister established a relationship with Cornelius Vanderbilt, a wealthy railroad magnate, through their work as traveling clairvoyants. With his backing, they settled in New York in the 1860s and together started the first female-run stock brokerage company, which attracted plenty of press coverage and brought her to the attention of suffrage advocates.

The sisters used money they earned from the firm to establish a women’s rights and reform newspaper, Woodhull & Claflin’s Weekly, which published the first English translation of “The Communist Manifesto” and served as an outlet for discussion of women’s suffrage and other issues. The newspaper advocated for issues like a single moral standard for the sexes and legalizing prostitution.

Woodhull became an unusual and prominent advocate for women’s suffrage at the height of her public career, which paved the way for her run for president.

She became the first woman to address a House committee on Jan. 11, 1871, delivering a speech before the House Judiciary Committee about women’s suffrage.

Woodhull, joined by famed women’s suffrage advocates Susan B. Anthony and Isabella Beecher Hooker, argued in her address that the 14th and 15th amendments implicitly afforded women the right to vote. She implored the committee to draft legislation giving women the right to vote, but they rejected her appeal.

Woodhull clashed with more conservative suffrage advocates like Anthony, who found Woodhull’s ideals too liberal.

Woodhull was nominated for president by the Equal Rights Party to run against incumbent Republican Ulysses Grant and Horace Greely, the Democratic nominee, in 1872. The party platform covered a range of issues, including abolishing monopolies, a single form of currency, an end to war, direct and equal taxation, help for the unemployed and free trade.

“While others of my sex devoted themselves to a crusade against the laws that shackle the women of the country, I asserted my individual independence; while others prayed for the good time coming, I worked for it; while others argued the equality of woman with man, I proved it by successfully engaging in business; while others sought to show that there was no valid reason why woman should be treated socially and politically as a being inferior to man, I boldly entered the arena of politics and business and exercised the rights I already possessed,” Woodhull wrote in a letter to the editor published in the New York Herald announcing her candidacy.

“I therefore claim the right to speak for the unenfranchised women of the country,” she wrote.

Abolitionist Frederick Douglass was nominated as Woodhull’s running mate, though he did not accept.

Woodhull did not win any electoral votes, but her run represented a step forward for women seeking a seat at the table in politics.

“I think it did send a signal to political elites and members of our political institutions that this was an issue they would need to address,” said Jennifer Lawless, a politics professor at the University of Virginia. “Questions of women’s political inclusion were not only going to be about the right to vote.”

The press coverage of her presidential run was overwhelmingly critical. Cartoonist Thomas Nast depicted Woodhull in demonic garb and labeled her “Mrs. Satan.”

“Being the first is always difficult, and so the fact that she did that, that she put herself out there, she definitely put the crack in the ceiling,” said Finneman. “What is frustrating today is how some of that same media vilification that she faced in 1872 has continued to be a thread in culture and media coverage of women even to this day.”

Finneman pointed to the coverage of Hillary Clinton’s 2016 presidential run and of former Alaska Gov. Sarah Palin when she was chosen as Sen. John McCain’s (R-Ariz.) running mate in 2008.

Woodhull is not typically listed among the names of prominent women’s rights advocates in present day, and experts say she has been overlooked likely because of her unconventional background and embrace of some controversial ideas.

In the waning days of her presidential campaign, Woodhull found herself embroiled in controversy. She and her sister were arrested three days before Election Day and thrown in New York City jail on obscenity charges for publishing a report in their newspaper about an alleged affair between Rev. Henry Ward Beecher and a married parishioner.

They were acquitted after several months of litigation, but Woodhull spent Election Day in prison, preventing her from any attempt at casting a ballot for herself.

Woodhull eventually sought a new start with her sister in England, after divorcing her second husband in 1876. She married an English banker in 1883 and went on to publish a number of works, including the magazine Humanitarian, which was focused on eugenics.

She died in England in 1927, at the age of 88.

2020年10月27日

Photographer Documents the Surprisingly Thriving Film Culture in the Coldest Region of Russia

My Modern Met/by jessica stewart

Photographer Documents the Surprisingly Thriving Film Culture in the Coldest Region of Russia

Russian photographer Alex Vasilyev continues to explore his own surroundings thanks to two ongoing series, My Dear Yakutia and Sakhawood. Born and raised in the far east Russian republic of Sakha, also known as Yakutia, Vasilyev once dreamed of traveling to exotic locations for his photography. But he quickly realized that in Yakutia—the coldest region of Russia—there was plenty of magic to be discovered.

This realization led Vasilyev on a path to explore the daily habits of his fellow citizens in the series My Dear Yakutia. Finding beauty in the simplicity of life, Vasilyev documents everything from the harsh winter snow to cozy moments indoors with friends and family. He uses clean lines and cool colors in his images, giving a sense of serenity and isolation in this remote place.

His Sakhawood series shows an unexpected side of life in Yakutia. There is a thriving filmmaking community in the region, which has earned it the nickname Sakhawood; seven to 10 feature films are made in the area per year. The teams that create these films are an eclectic bunch, with most directors working in cinema on the side and the actors plucked from local theater troupes or the streets of Yakutia.

Despite the unlikely location, the movies produced here do quite well. Most are filmed in the local language and are low budget by Russian cinema standards. Yet, some have done very well at the box office, even beating international blockbusters. Over the past 15 years, 180 feature films have been shot in Sakha. Many then go on to win prizes at local and international film festivals, with the actors becoming recognized faces across Russia. Vasilyev’s documentation of Sakhawood is a beautiful way to see that artistry exists and thrives in even the most unexpected environments.

Alex Vasilyev photographs his own backyard, Yakutia, which is one of the coldest regions of Russia.

Namtsy village of Namsky Ulus. Often Yakut people prefer to shoot films in rural areas, because it is easier to find the right nature and catch the right atmosphere.

Evgeny Andreev at home in his kitchen with his cat Kotey.

Due to the permafrost, communication pipes are not buried in the ground, but laid outside. Because of this, Yakutsk received the nickname “The city with guts out.”

Residential Neighborhood in Yakutsk

A new residential neighborhood in Yakutsk

Young Couple Watching television

A young couple Ivan and Inna are watching TV at home. There are several Yakut TV channels with 24/7 broadcasting in Yakutia: “The National Broadcasting Company-Sakha”, “Yakutia-24”, “Mammoth”. They broadcast news, entertainment, sports, music, etc.

He’s also documented the area’s thriving filmmaking scene, which has earned it the nickname Sakhawood.

Portrait of Stepan Petrov

Stepan Petrov, 74 years old, became a celebrity not only in Yakutia but also in Russia after starring in two Yakut films ‘The Lord Eagle’ (2018) and ‘The Sun Does Not Set Over Me’ (2019). He’s been featured in newspapers, documentaries, and commercials. Stepan is not a professional actor, he acts in the folk theater of the small village Kerdem, where he lives with his wife.

Filmmakers in Yakutsk

Stepan (left) drinks cognac at home with screenwriter Semyon Ermolaev (middle) and Eduard Novikov (right), the creators of the feature film “The Lord Eagle”, which won the Grand Prix of the Moscow International Film festival in 2018. It is a story about an old man and his wife, who sheltered an eagle, a sacred bird in the Yakut culture.

Film Set in Yakutia

The second part shooting of the first in a series of Yakut fairy tale films based on the Yakut folk tale “The Old Beyberikeen With Five Cows.” The film’s director Konstantin Timofeev says: “I want to present this film to all Yakut children. Our generation grew up on Russian fairy tales. I hope this picture will become an impulse and motivation for local directors to start shooting tapes about our Yakut fairy tales!”

Film Set in Yakutia

The Stepanovs are on the shoooting of a film “The Old Beyberikeen”. The mother of the family, Anastasia, works on the site as a cook, prepares breakfast, lunch and dinner for the entire crew. In addition, Anastasia is involved with the children in several crowd scenes. Anastasia Stepanova says: “My friend from the city suggested my children to participate in the film “The Old Woman Beyberikeen”. I thought it was a great idea to have an unusual summer vacation. We went to town together. When their roles were approved, I was offered to accompany them and at the same time become the cook of the crew. I couldn’t refuse the offer.”

Filmmaking in Yakutia

Shooting melee of the main good guys in the fairy tale “The Old Beyberikeen” against the Abaahy evil spirit.

Young Actors in the Set of a Move in Yakutia

Twins Semyon and Stepan starred in the fairy tale “The Old Beyberikeen” in the roles of mythical creatures living in the swamps—dulgancha. It is the first time they’ve participated in a film. They got into the film thanks to casting in Yakutsk. They traveled from their small village in Amginsky ulus a few hundred kilometers far away.

Group Portrait of Sakha Theater Actors

A group portrait of the Sakha theater actors, who acted in the historical comedy “Hasty” based on the classic drama of the same name by the Yakut writer Nikolai Neustroev. Since all films in Yakutia are shot in the national language, the majority of professional actors in the cinema are actors of the Sakha Theater, where performances are staged in the Yakut language. The actors are fluent in the literary Yakut language.

Actress Maria Mikhaleva

The actress of The Olonkho Theater Maria Mikhaleva is resting between takes on the set of “The Old Beyberikeen”.

Violetta Khristoforova Acting in a Film

Violetta Khristoforova in the main role of the mystical drama “The Cursed Land”. The director Stepan Burnashev cast the girl for the role after visiting her page on Instagram.

Alex Vasilyev: Website | Instagram

My Modern Met granted permission to feature photos by Alex Vasilyev.

2020年10月22日2020年10月23日

I’m Bengali, my boyfriend was black – and my mum freaked out

BBC / Ashni Lakhani / October 20, 2020

https://www.bbc.com/news/stories-54607713

When a young British Bengali woman with a black boyfriend got pregnant, her family’s reaction forced her to confront their anti-black prejudices.

As she stomped away from her maternal home, Salma began tallying up her current status. Twenty-one, two months pregnant and now, homeless. The door slammed shut behind her. And all because she was a Bengali woman insisting on having a baby with a black man.

In her community, Bengali women “didn’t have” babies out of wedlock – let alone mixed-race, dark-skinned babies.

Her aunt had spent the morning urging her to get another abortion, just as she had done last time she’d fallen pregnant. But she was no longer 18. What right did they have to make this decision for her?

“I was willing to do whatever it took to have her. Yes, that meant giving up my family, giving up my career and giving up everything. But I felt like I had no other option,” Salma says.

Just before Salma had walked out of the house, she’d caught sight of her mum’s tears splashing on to her half-eaten roti.

“I knew she was wishing that this had been a Bengali baby. Then she could have called up the boy’s family, arranged a wedding and ‘legitimised’ the whole problem by the end of the day.”

But this father was black.

Before even more relatives could turn up and weigh in on her life, Salma grabbed her pink Nokia 3210 and stormed out. She was not getting an abortion and she couldn’t stay with a family who didn’t support her decision to have her baby.

Salma’s romance was a classic love story – he was the boy next door, she was the naïve heroine ready to fall in love. But in Bollywood, black heroes are not allowed.

Although South Asians have endured racism for centuries, anti-blackness – prejudice against black people – is as rife within this community as in many others.

No Bengali auntie ever came outright and said to Salma, “Black people are bad.” Anti-blackness took the form of casual comments throughout childhood such as “Don’t go outside in the sun, you’ll get dark,” or “That fair-skinned girl will get so many marriage proposals.”

Her mother’s anti-blackness, informed by the British colonial system she had once lived under in Bangladesh, not only took it for granted that lighter skin was better it also accepted the worst stereotypes of black men.

She told 16-year-old Salma: “They only want to get you pregnant.” When she hugged her, she would quickly feel her stomach. “You won’t amount to much dating one,” her mum said when she found out about the boy next door.

No-one had said anything like this when three white women had married into the family.

Salma’s parents had arrived in London 30 years earlier, migrating from Bangladesh to a housing estate in London, that was, incredibly, within walking distance of Harrods. They were living the immigrant dream.

“The one Harrods carrier bag was a prized possession in the household and was kept neatly folded in the kitchen, only brought out when guests would visit. Little did they know it had been used to buy the cheapest thing in the shop – peanuts,” Salma says.

But then one day Salma’s key stopped opening her front door – literally.

While she and her mum had been on holiday, her dad had changed the locks, leaving Salma’s mum homeless with two children to care for.

After that, her own community stigmatised her for being a divorcee – but she remained an outsider among non-Bengalis too.

“Her worst fear was that I was going to end up like her,” Salma says.

“Yet there I stood, defiant and ready to betray my culture, career and community for a black man who she knew was adulterous, had no plans to marry me and had now given me a daughter she didn’t think I could provide for.”

A week after her baby was born, Salma found herself staring at her mother’s front door again. She could see the Christmas lights glistening through the window and caught a whiff of roast chicken. Anxiously, she straightened her baby’s clothes and rang the doorbell.

Her brother opened the door and rejoiced at the small baby in her arms. She nervously entered the house. How would her mother react to seeing this one-week-old? The chicken was surely a good sign, she thought – it was her favourite English meal to make and food was always used as a peace offering in this house.

Timidly, she took a seat at the dinner table, leaving the baby asleep in a cot in another room. Her mother avoided direct eye contact as she served up the chicken. Suddenly, a sharp baby’s cry came from the adjacent room. Perfect timing, she thought, but as she got up to leave her mother stopped her: “I’ll go.” Soon the crying had stopped. Her mother was holding her granddaughter for the first time.

Tears formed in Salma eyes. Her mother, despite her prejudices, could love her daughter. It was the confirmation she’d been looking for to ask for help and move back home.

“Within a few days, mum had performed all the Muslim baby rituals and truly blessed my little girl,” Salma says.

Yet they never spoke about what had happened in the months Salma had been away.

Five weeks later, disaster struck.

Salma found out her partner had been with another woman the whole time and that she too had just given birth. It was as though her mum’s worst fears about black men had come true, her stereotypes confirmed.

Silence, tension and passive aggression filled Salma’s life – and plunged her into a deep depression.

“For my mum, it felt like she suddenly had two babies to look after – me and my daughter. She would wake us both up, feed us and look after us, but while always making sure she hid us from everyone else.”

Salma escaped from her troubles by writing poetry and studying. She graduated from university seven months after having her baby. She knew it would have been impossible without her mother, though she never told her that.

Her mum still disapproved of her life choices, especially when she decided to take her partner back and moved out to live with him.

She did this quickly after graduating, unable to express to her mum the mixture of gratitude and resentment she felt.

Over the following few years Salma’s life took more unexpected turns.

She had another child with the same partner, who later walked out on her for good. She started to rebuild a relationship with members of her extended family who had previously ostracised her and her children. One even apologised for supporting the abortion.

But the undertone of casual anti-blackness towards her children and choices never went away. “At least they look more like you,” they’d say. “Of course, he was going to leave you and end up down the wrong path,” tutted her mother. “If only you had picked a light-skinned looking one,” a cousin casually remarked.

She would try to explain how offensive some of these comments were, to little effect.

But as Salma’s own children grew up, she found it easier to understand some of her mother’s concerns.

“I can see now how it all came from a place of love and protection,” she says.

“Ultimately, she was just making the decisions that she had been taught would lead to happiness and love for her daughter.”

But Salma still couldn’t leave her mum’s anti-black attitudes unchallenged.

One morning she finally blurted out: “It’s because he was black, wasn’t it?”

“No,” her mum replied defensively. “Not because he was black, but because he wasn’t Muslim. He couldn’t understand us.”

Salma stared back at her mum, shocked. That was the first time her mum had placed such an importance on religion. Well, what about the three non-Muslim women who had been welcomed into the family, she thought.

Salma now thinks this may have been her mother’s way of acknowledging her anti-blackness, without actually admitting to it.

“I think in that moment, she recognised how unfair her prejudice was based on skin colour, and that’s why she switched the conversation to religion,” she says.

There have since been further developments in the family.

A few months ago there was an interesting development in the family – Salma’s brother started dating a black woman. And to Salma’s surprise, her mother accepted it without hesitation.

“That’s progress for a woman who had never recognised or challenged her anti-black attitudes before,” she says.

“I’m so proud of how far she’s come, although we still have more to go.

“I don’t blame her for thinking the way she did. But it was time I challenged it. It’s time we did as a community.”

Salma is a pseudonym

Illustrations by Tanzina Parisa Kabir – follow Tanzina on Instagram

2020年10月20日

Fauci quotes ‘The Godfather’ in response to latest Trump attacks

The Hill / BROOKE SEIPEL / October 19, 2020
https://thehill.com/policy/healthcare/521778-fauci-quotes-the-godfather-in-response-to-latest-trump-attacks

Top infectious diseases expert Anthony Fauci brushed off new criticism from President Trump on Monday, quoting “The Godfather” in a radio interview.

In an interview with Southern California AM radio station KNX1070, Fauci was asked to respond to Trump reportedly calling him “a disaster” during a campaign call earlier in the day.

“People are tired of hearing Fauci and all these idiots, these people, these people that have gotten it wrong. Fauci is a nice guy, he’s been here for 500 years, he called every one of them wrong,” Trump told campaign staffers. “Every time he goes on television there’s always a bomb. But there is a bigger bomb if you fire him. But Fauci is a disaster. I mean, this guy, if I listened to him, we would have 500,000 deaths.”

After having Trump’s comments read back to him during the radio appearance, Fauci dismissed it as a “distraction.”

“I would prefer not to comment on that and just get on with what we are really trying to do and what we are trying to do is to protect the health and welfare and safety of the American people predominantly, and ultimately, of the world,” he said. “We are seeing an uptick in cases — higher than they’ve ever been. Many, many states that had been doing reasonably well are now showing upticks, that’s what we should be concentrating on.”

He added he doesn’t want to create a “me against the president” mentality, calling it unhelpful.

“[Addressing the virus is] the only thing I really care about. That other stuff, it’s like in ‘The Godfather’: Nothing personal, strictly business as far as I’m concerned. I just want to do my job and take care of the people of this country,” Fauci said.

The president’s remarks criticizing Fauci followed an interview with CBS’s “60 Minutes” in which Fauci said he was not surprised Trump contracted the coronavirus after a White House event announcing Trump’s Supreme Court nominee during which guests were not wearing masks or social distancing.

Trump has repeatedly criticized Fauci in recent weeks as the election draws closer. Most recently, the two have sparred after Fauci says he was taken out of context in a video clip used in a Trump campaign ad, adding that he did not give his consent to be used in the ad. The Trump campaign has defended the move.

2020年10月20日

A Centuries-Old Korean Style Gets an Update

The New York Times / Hahna Yoon / October. 19, 2020
https://www.nytimes.com/2020/10/19/style/hanbok-k-pop-fashion.html?action=click&module=Features&pgtype=Homepage

Jennie, right, of the K-pop group Blackpink, wearing a hanbok made by Danha.

When the K-pop band Blackpink released the music video for their song “How You Like That” in June, fans began asking about the group’s outfits, which appeared at once traditional and contemporary. Who was the designer behind Jennie’s cropped pink jacket, they wanted to know, and what inspired the look?

In the past few years, similar design concepts have been spotted on members of K-pop groups like BTS, SHINee and Exo. They are fresh takes on a centuries-old form of Korean dress called a hanbok. Scroll through the #hanbokstagram hashtag on Instagram and you’ll find thousands of posts with updated looks.

While a hanbok — which usually consists of a jeogori (jacket), paired with baji (pants) for men and a chima (skirt) for women — is generally reserved for holidays and special occasions, contemporary designers have been reimagining it.

Some modern hanbok brands have been boosted by K-pop stars who command devoted stan armies. Kim Danha, of the label Danha, said her brand’s site saw nearly 4,000 visitors a day after her jacket appeared on Jennie in the Blackpink video.

Leesle Hwang, the designer of the brand Leesle, saw an increase in sales after Jimin of BTS wore one of her hanbok ensembles at the 2018 Melon Music Awards in Seoul. “It’s incredible how many people got to know Leesle through that one appearance,” she said. Another brand, A Nothing, gained some 8,000 followers after Jungkook, another BTS member, wore its clothes.

Jimin wearing a hanbok by Leesle at the 2018 Melon Music Awards.

“The reason why people became interested in hanboks, especially outside Korea, is this growth soft power as demonstrated by K-pop,” said Kan Ho-sup, a professor of textile art and fashion design at Hongik University.

In Korea, the style can be traced back to the first century B.C., and was traditionally made out of silk dyed in vivid colors. (Before the advent of Western clothing in Korea, all clothing was simply a hanbok; the word itself means “Korean clothing.”)

According to Minjee Kim, a dress historian in San Francisco, Western clothing completely replaced the hanbok in the early 1980s. Almost concurrently, there were designers incorporating traditional Korean elements into Western designs.

Ms. Kim attributed the late designer Lee Young-hee as the first designer to transcend the boundaries of hanbok design. At Paris Fashion Week in 1993, the designer sent bare-shouldered models down the runway wearing hanboks without a jeogori.

Around the same time, the stylist Suh Younghee became interested in hanbok because she felt it could counter the industry’s obsession with Western labels. She began playing with hanbok conventions at Vogue Korea, where she worked. In the February 2006 issue, she styled jokduri (traditional coronets) on models with vibrantly dyed hair, an image that defied any conventionality the garment might convey. In 2014, she helped start the Hanbok Advancement Center, which leads programs on hanbok education and funds related events.

The designer Kim Young-Jin. via Kim Young-Jin

In the early 2000s, the designer Kim Young-Jin started rethinking the style’s tradition while studying with Park Sun-young, a master of hanbok needlework. Ms. Kim learned about a type of traditional military uniform worn by men during the Joseon dynasty (1392-1897) called the Cheolik, and recreated it as a midi-length wrap dress with a V-shaped collar, tailored to fit the female form. “Just because something is inspired by the past doesn’t mean there’s no creativity in it,” she said.

When images of the garment began circulating, other labels started creating similar looks. Ms. Suh, who often collaborates with Ms. Kim for high-end fashion photo shoots, called the number of “copies” troubling. “I’m not saying this because we’re close, but Tchai Kim’s Cheolik one-piece marked a new era of hanbok design,” Ms. Suh said.

After experimenting with leftover textiles at her parents’ bedding and curtains shop, Ms. Hwang, of Leesle, began selling her pieces online and eventually started Sonjjang, a hanbok line focusing on what she called “altered hanboks,” with lace and frills, and shortened sleeves and skirt lines.

Designs by Leesle Hwang. via Leesle Hwang

When Ms. Hwang began thinking about creating hanboks for everyday wear, she turned to the internet. A majority of traditional hanbok shops were, and still are, reluctant to stray from the expensive, ’70s-style tailored-to-fit designs, but online communities devoted to hanbok subcultures were already discussing what changes they wanted in the garment as early as the mid 2000s.

Taking their feedback into account, Ms. Hwang founded Leesle in 2014, selling easy-to-wash hanboks. Her clothes are available in extra small to large, unlike many companies that offer only one size. “I don’t want to be exclusive,” Ms. Hwang said. “Bigger people. Older people. Slender people.” Her garments are also more modestly priced than their silk forebears, at under $200 apiece.

“It’s still uncommon to see people in modern hanbok,” Ms. Hwang said. “And while it doesn’t need to be worn all the time, it can become a basic item like a white T-shirt or black pants.”

Kim Danha said she hopes those who encounter her brand come to appreciate Danha’s environmental ethos. The label has a focus on sustainability; 30 to 50 percent of its fabrics are recycled polyester or organic cotton.

“Sustainability and traditional Korean design go well together because compared to Western shapes, original hanbok designs produce less scraps,” she said. The hanbok’s straight lines, she said, waste less fabric than, for instance, the rounded collar of a T-shirt.

Kim Danha, designer of the label Danha. via Danha

She cited the worsening air pollution in South Korea as a motivation for her interest in environmental issues.

However, so-called slow fashion is a tough business, she said. Upcycling discarded wedding dresses is labor-intensive, and everything, even printing on fabric, costs more when you take the eco-friendly route, she said. So while she tries to uphold that model, most important to her is honoring the hanbok and giving it a place in the future.

2020年10月19日

Thousands rally across France in tribute to murdered schoolteacher

The Guardian / Jon Henley / October 18, 2020
https://www.theguardian.com/world/2020/oct/18/thousands-rally-across-france-in-tribute-to-dead-schoolteacher

Tens of thousands of people have rallied in solidarity, in dozens of towns and cities across France, after a secondary schoolteacher was beheaded in an attack that has shocked a country already shaken by terrorist atrocities.

Demonstrators gathered on Sunday in cities including Paris, Lyon, Toulouse, Strasbourg, Nantes, Marseille, Lille and Bordeaux in support of free speech and in tribute to Samuel Paty, who was killed outside his school on Friday after discussing caricatures of the prophet Muhammad with his class.

Leading politicians, civil rights associations and teachers’ unions rallied on the Place de la République in Paris holding placards proclaiming “Je suis Samuel”, an echo of the “Je suis Charlie” slogan following the 2015 attack in which Islamist gunmen killed 12 people at the offices of the satirical newspaper Charlie Hebdo.

Protesters at Place de la République in Paris pay tribute to Samuel Paty. Photograph: Charles Platiau/Reuters

Others held placards aloft declaring “No to totalitarianism of thought”, “I am a teacher” and “Schools in mourning”. Between bursts of applause, others chanted “Freedom of expression, freedom to teach” or sang La Marseillaise.

“We are the result of our history: these values of liberty, secularism and democracy cannot remain just words,” one demonstrator in Paris told French television. “We have to keep them alive, and being here helps do that.”

Many teachers said the killing came amid a climate of growing suspicion and criticism of teachers, with parents particularly willing to intervene. “We have to be allowed to do our jobs,” one teacher told Le Monde. “It cannot be allowed come to this – that I now know I might end up being killed for teaching,” said another.

Before the rallies, the education minister, Jean-Michel Blanquer called on “everyone to support our teachers”, saying “solidarity and unity” was vital. State interior secretary, Marlène Schiappa, said she was attending the Paris rally “for teachers, secularism and freedom of expression, and against Islamism”.

Kamel Kabtane, rector of the Lyon mosque and a senior Muslim figure, said Paty had merely been “doing his job” and was “respectful” in doing so. “These terrorists are not religious but are using religion to take power,” Kabtane told Agence France-Presse.

A national tribute will be organised for Wednesday, the Élysée Palace announced. The prime minister, Jean Castex, who attended the Paris rally along with opposition leaders and the city’s mayor, Anne Hidalgo, said the government was working on a strategy to better protect teachers from similar threats.

“I want teachers to know that, after this ignoble act, the whole country is behind them,” Castex said. “This tragedy affects each and every one of us because, through this teacher, it is the republic that was attacked.”

The 47-year-old history and geography teacher was repeatedly attacked with a 30cm butcher’s knife outside the Bois-d’Aulne secondary school in Conflans-Sainte-Honorine, about 20 miles north-west of Paris, by an 18-year-old assailant.

Named as Abdullakh Anzorov, the attacker was shot dead by police soon afterwards when he fired at officers and tried to stab them as they closed in on him. He was born in Moscow of Chechen parents, authorities said, and had arrived in France aged six where he had been granted refugee status along with his family.

Anzorov lived in Évreux, about 60 miles from Conflans, had not attended the school and, while he had a record for vandalism and fights as a child, had no known radical or Islamist affiliations, French media reported.

A Twitter account under the name Abdoulakh A belonging to the suspect posted a photo of the decapitated head from the attacker’s mobile phone minutes after the attack, along with the message: “I have executed one of the dogs from hell who dared to put Muhammad down.”

Earlier this month, as part of a class discussion on freedom of expression and alongside cartoons and caricatures of different subjects, Paty showed his pupils two of the caricatures of the prophet Muhammad published by Charlie Hebdo.

According to parents and teachers, the teacher had given Muslim children in his class the option to leave the classroom or turn away before he showed the two cartoons, saying that he did not want their feelings hurt.

A placard with the portrait of history teacher Samuel Paty as people gather in Paris. Photograph: Bertrand Guay/AFP/Getty Images

France’s antiterror prosecutor, Jean-François Ricard, said on Saturday that the teacher had been the target of multiple online threats for showing the cartoons to his class. Depictions of the prophet are widely regarded as taboo in Islam.

The father of one girl at the school had launched an online appeal for a “mobilisation” against the teacher, demanding he was fired. He also named Paty and gave the school’s address in a social media post days before the attack.

A known Islamist militant accompanied some parents to the school to argue their case, and helped file a formal police complaint. The schoolgirl’s father and the Islamist leader, along with four members of Anzorov’s family, are among 11 people arrested, including one person detained on Sunday.

Friday’s attack was the second of its kind since a trial started last month over the Charlie Hebdo massacre. The magazine republished the cartoons in the run-up to the trial, and last month a young Pakistani man wounded two people with a meat cleaver outside the magazine’s former office.