蒂芙尼蓝色礼享 轻启蓝色礼盒, 邂逅心动“金”喜

Tiffany & Co. 蒂芙尼2020节日季大片

华灯璀璨,星光点点,缤纷烂漫的节日季悄然降临。2020,纵然经历了全新的考验,短暂偏离过生活的轨道,节日的美好依然如约而至。回望过去,无数珍贵时刻交织——自我的成长、挚爱的诺言,抑或是至亲挚友的相伴,每个瞬间都值得珍藏与纪念。

在如梦似幻的冬日光影间,美好的一切即将拉开序幕。跟随蒂芙尼踏上满载爱与希冀的节日旅程,轻解柔情缎带,邂逅至臻之礼,让每个重要时刻都有蒂芙尼蓝色礼盒见证。

「个性之作,献给独一无二的自己」

打破桎梏,独立张扬——与内心自我的连结,皆赋予每个人独一无二的风格与态度。蒂芙尼甄选一系列个性佳作致敬强大自我,从自信独立的Tiffany T系列,坚韧无畏的Tiffany T1系列,到大胆前卫的HardWear作品,为自己每一个勇往直前的瞬间,每一个自信坚定的决定,更为以率性摩登的姿态迎接全新未来。

从上至下:Tiffany & Co. 蒂芙尼T系列18K玫瑰金镶钻手镯;Tiffany & Co. 蒂芙尼T1系列18K玫瑰金镶钻宽式戒指 ;Tiffany & Co. 蒂芙尼HardWear系列18K玫瑰金镶钻链环手链

「风格典范,为家人点亮珍贵时光」

一段惬意的陪伴,一份承载温情的蓝色礼盒,都让与家人相伴的节日时光变得愈发珍贵而闪耀。经典Tiffany T系列,将标志性“T”形图案进行不同解构与设计,演绎时尚多元的风格趣味,诠释人与人之间的亲密纽带,无论闪耀指腕,还是环绕颈项,都让爱时刻相伴家人左右。

Tiffany & Co. 蒂芙尼T系列、T1系列作品

 

 「至臻光华,为挚爱许下幸福诺言」

浓情冬日,爱意蔓延,最浪漫的节日总有一抹蓝色相伴。蒂芙尼璀璨钻戒,以跨越百年的匠心设计,定下属于彼此的心动契约,凝结熠熠幸福时刻。搭配风格万千的不同对戒,将专属爱意化为指间缱绻,许下共携未来的挚爱诺言。

Tiffany & Co. 蒂芙尼The Tiffany® Setting六爪镶嵌钻戒
 从左至右:Tiffany & Co. 蒂芙尼Schlumberger®系列戒指;T系列T True 18K黄金戒指;T1系列18K玫瑰金镶钻窄式戒指;Embrace®系列钻戒;T1系列18K黄金镶钻宽式戒指;Victoria系列铂金镶钻藤蔓戒指

「璀璨心意,为挚友送上美好祝愿」

无论相聚一起,还是远隔万里,将真情祝愿藏于臻选之礼,让友谊绵长而又缤纷。Tiffany Keys系列作品,悬于胸前聆听挚友的初心祈愿,紧握手中凝结乐观向上的无限潜能。臻美钻石点缀其间,开启未来无限可能。Tiffany T系列作品,以摩登之姿,彰显个性,表达自我,呈现挚友之选。

从左至右:Tiffany & Co. 蒂芙尼Keys系列Victoria铂金镶钻钥匙吊坠;18K玫瑰金镶钻花瓣形钥匙吊坠;铂金镶嵌黄钻及白钻圆形万花筒钥匙吊坠
从上至下:Tiffany & Co. 蒂芙尼T系列18K黄金手镯;T1系列18K玫瑰金镶钻窄式手镯;T系列T Smile 18K白金镶钻项链;T系列T True 18K玫瑰金铺镶钻石戒指

 

「家居精品,为生活增添时尚格调」

生活需要一份格调将其点亮。蒂芙尼家居精品系列,融合精美造型与实用功能,赋予日常更多不凡风尚。独具特色的麻将套装,以奢华材质与精湛工艺打造而成,为游戏生活再添别样趣味。蒂芙尼精选宠物配饰,则在这个节日为家庭小成员带来特别的爱,俏皮设计彰显可爱趣态,更同步与主人的时尚风范。

从左至右:Tiffany & Co. 蒂芙尼国际象棋套装;Tiffany & Co. 蒂芙尼麻将套装
Tiffany & Co. 蒂芙尼精选宠物配饰

旖旎动人的蓝色,斑斓温暖的光影,蒂芙尼捕捉节日梦幻,传递爱与美好。从摩登新作,风格典范,再到生活精品,在蒂芙尼,总有一份属于你的挚爱佳礼。

 

大胆优雅,简约风格 Tiffany & Co. 蒂芙尼Elsa Peretti®系列

作为享誉世界的殿堂级珠宝设计师,艾尔莎·柏瑞蒂不仅创制了对时尚领域产生深远影响的珠宝作品,而且为设计领域作出了恒久贡献。

蒂芙尼将艾尔莎·柏瑞蒂的设计全新引入中国市场,更以此向她完全颠覆20世纪珠宝设计的卓然才华致敬。艾尔莎·柏瑞蒂是一位真正拥有想象力的设计师,她创造了全新的奢华设计,于自然清新的外形上呈现出利落感性的线条与优雅简约的风格。

“风格即是简约。”艾尔莎·柏瑞蒂如是说道。这一理念引领她一生的创作,也是她杰出设计生涯的基石。 “我力求呈现出极致完美的品质,去繁就简。我只为那终极的纯粹。”

每一款设计背后的灵感都赋予作品更多魅力,透露出艾尔莎·柏瑞蒂对艺术、手工艺和自然世界的热爱。Open Heart是她著名的设计作品之一,这一原创珠宝设计历久弥新,并完美阐释了她的经典名言——“优美的线条与形状即是永恒。”若将Open Heart吊坠悬饰于纯银项链或丝绳之上,它优雅灵动,令人目醉神迷。这一设计的精髓所在恰是其毫无矫揉造作的成熟魅力。

艾尔莎·柏瑞蒂的Diamonds by the Yard®系列一经推出便被视为革新之作。柏瑞蒂希望钻石更富现代感,更易于佩戴。她将精致流畅的项链与包镶镶嵌的钻石巧妙搭配,赋予钻石项链以全新定义,并永远改变了钻石在时尚领域中所扮演的角色。正是她令这些璀璨美钻呈现出从未有过的全新风格与成熟魅力。全球女性都倾慕于此款耀目钻石项链的灵动神采,或单链佩戴,或层叠搭配,日夜之间,流光溢彩。

她创作的另一经典设计便是Bottle吊坠。这一瓶形吊坠既可容纳花朵,又珍藏了她早年游历意大利菲诺港的美好回忆。在那里,她与身着明丽绸服、手执栀子花的女士们一道乐享生活之美。

艾尔莎·柏瑞蒂的其它经典设计还包括了风格大胆、外廓优雅的Bone系列手镯,灵感源自她在孩提时代偶然拾得的一块令她无比着迷的骨头;线条流畅、触感宜人的Bean®系列,令人自然想到寓意生命起源的种子;Teardrop系列则捕捉到泪滴所蕴含的至深情愫与美感;而西班牙一位弗拉明戈舞者佩戴的耳环便启发了Sevillana™系列的诞生。

与柏瑞蒂精诚合作的超凡工匠们将她的设计手工打造成蒂芙尼的珠宝珍品。工匠们采用纯银、18k金、铂金、涂漆与雕刻宝石,搭配以绚丽宝石凸显其珠宝作品的感性线条和雕塑质感。金属与宝石交相辉映,展示出柏瑞蒂于自然形态中抽离出本真精华的独特才华。

如其珠宝设计一般,艾尔莎·柏瑞蒂的家居设计同样兼具风格美感与功能特性。Thumbprint系列的碗具采用了手工吹制的威尼斯玻璃或者纯银材质,并匠心独具地在碗的边缘做出凹槽设计,便于用拇指握牢。手感宜人这一特质同样体现在Bone系列烛台、Bean®系列相框以及闪闪发光的水晶或纯银Heart盒子之上。

艾尔莎·柏瑞蒂最早期的珠宝设计成为那个时代多位伟大时装设计师秀场时装的完美点缀。其后,她受到蒂芙尼公司的垂青,加入蒂芙尼的首个珠宝系列于1974年面世。自那时起,她设计的珠宝和其它作品绽放出历久弥新的永恒之美,成为蒂芙尼设计美学中不可分割的重要组成,吸引着全世界女性的忠实倾慕。

In Europe and the US, abortion rights are under renewed threat

 November 1, 2020

(CNN)The Abortion Dream Team usually receives about 400 calls a month, from women seeking advice and information. Last week, the Polish advocacy group had 700 in the space of three days, according to team member Justyna Wydrzynska.

Some came from women who had just arrived at hospital to have abortions because of fetal defects — only to be told to go home after Poland’s highest court on October 22 imposed a near-total ban on abortion.
“They are furious and sad and they don’t know what to do,” Wydrzynska told CNN. “They cannot take pills because [their pregnancy is] above 20 weeks so it could be dangerous for them.” The likelihood of a woman taking abortion pills needing a further procedure is far greater after 14 weeks, according to the UK’s National Health Service.

A demonstrator in Warsaw holds flares as hundreds of thousands took to the streets this week to voice their opposition to the tightening of Poland's abortion law.

 A demonstrator in Warsaw holds flares as hundreds of thousands took to the streets this week to voice their opposition to the tightening of Poland’s abortion law.
The women Wydrzynska and her team spoke to may be forced to travel abroad for the procedure, or left to carry a pregnancy to term even if they know the baby will not survive, since providers could be jailed, she said.
However, President Andrzej Duda submitted a draft amendment to the law on Friday, which would legalize abortion in situations where the baby has “lethal defects” and would die soon after birth.
Hundreds of thousands of protesters, some dressed as handmaids, took part in the country’s largest demonstrations in decades this week. Some were met by riot police with pepper spray and arrests on the streets, while others stormed churches, and scuffles broke out in parliament.

Friday's protest in Warsaw was the largest Poland has seen in decades as demonstrators wearing face masks and holding placards took to the streets.

 Friday’s protest in Warsaw was the largest Poland has seen in decades as demonstrators wearing face masks and holding placards took to the streets.
Poland’s abortion laws were already restrictive, even before the latest rule change. It is estimated that around 100,000 Polish women travel abroad each year for a termination, according to a statement by United Nations experts.
Of more than 1,110 legal abortions in Polish hospitals in in 2019, approximately 98% were carried out because of fetal defects, according to data from the Polish Ministry of Health cited by the Polish Press Agency. The decision to declare terminations unconstitutional in these cases means it will be virtually impossible to obtain an abortion in the country, except in cases of rape, incest or where there is a provable threat to the woman’s life.
The lawmakers proposing the change argued that allowing abortion in cases of fetal defects was discrimination and violated the unborn child’s right to life.
“There is a lot of rage and frustration,” Urszula Grycuk, from Poland’s Federation for Women and Family Planning, told CNN of the reaction in Poland.
“Even wanting to get pregnant in this country, women would be afraid they would not get services like prenatal testing, for example. Many may go abroad to obtain professional pregnancy care,” she added.
Grycuk, the nongovernmental organization’s (NGO’s) international advocacy coordinator, said she and others do not recognize the legitimacy of Poland’s Constitutional Tribunal. The European Commission has reported concerns over the tribunal’s independence and legitimacy, partly because of how judges are selected.
Not everyone agrees. “I think that the decision of Polish constitution is a major step towards full realization of human rights in our country,” Karolina Pawlowska, director of the Center of International Law at Poland’s Ordo Iuris Institute and a PhD student at the University of Warsaw, told CNN.
“It’s about fetal defects and syndromes like Down syndrome, Turner syndrome or other conditions that are seen as a defect,” she added. “We of course know that many people with Down syndrome, that many people that are disabled, can live a life of satisfaction.”

‘A time for deep concern’

Poland is the only European Union member state — barring Malta — to have such harsh laws. In Malta, abortion is completely banned, even when a woman’s life is at risk.
But Poland’s move to strip away reproductive rights is one of a series of blows to abortion rights in western countries — including the United States and Slovakia — in recent weeks. While Slovakia’s attempt to restrict abortion access was voted down in Parliament, each is an example of regular attempts in modern democracies to make abortion harder to access, despite campaigners saying it needs to be made easier.
In many cases, attempts to roll back abortion rights are being made where there have also been rollbacks on democracy, civil society and human rights.
Last week saw the signing of the Geneva Consensus Declaration, which emphasizes the “strength of the family and of a successful and flourishing society” and challenges the right to an abortion.
The document, signed by 30 countries including Poland and Belarus, states that it aims “to express the essential priority of protecting the right to life.”
It was co-sponsored by a group of largely repressive governments: Brazil, Egypt, Indonesia, Uganda, Hungary — and the United States.
Abortion is more contentious in the US than in Europe. While Roe v. Wade settled the question of whether a woman can legally have one almost 50 years ago, the appointment of Amy Coney Barrett to the US Supreme Court on Monday was met with dismay by abortion rights supporters who fear she’ll overturn it.
In a 2013 essay about how principles of “stare decisis” might impact Roe v. Wade, Barrett, then a professor at Notre Dame University, pointed to the strength of the doctrine but suggested room for some cases to be overturned. “Court watchers,” she wrote, “embrace the possibility of overruling, even if they may want it to be the exception rather than the rule.”
She has previously signed a “right to life ad” that called for the protection of unborn children; suggested access to abortion could be limited; and in 2013 spoke “to her own conviction that life begins at conception” during a professorial talk, according to Notre Dame Magazine.
“This is a time for extraordinarily deep concern about the right to abortion in the United States,” Julie Rikelman, senior director of US litigation at the Center for Reproductive Rights, told CNN.
“At every level of the Federal Court, we now have judges and justices who do not support the right to abortion and so the basic federal constitutional right is in jeopardy in a way that it hasn’t been for decades,” said Rikelman.
She said the right to abortion was also in “critical danger” at a state level, with 468 restrictions enacted since the start of 2011, according to the Guttmacher Institute, a non-profit organization focused on reproductive rights.
That will disproportionately affect poor women, who are more likely to need abortions and to struggle with the expense of the procedure and traveling to a different state, Rikelman said.
“We already know there are 21 states that would ban abortion outright if given the opportunity to do so,” Mary Ziegler, a law professor at Florida State University and author of Abortion and the Law in America: Roe v. Wade to the Present, told CNN when asked what might happen if Roe v Wade is overturned.
Ziegler said recent restrictions on abortion, seen in at least nine states, have a “chilling effect” on women who want a termination but are afraid of the consequences.

Restrictions across Europe

Central and Eastern Europe in particular have, seen multiple attempts to reduce women’s legal entitlements to abortion or to introduce new barriers.
Slovakia’s parliament earlier this month voted against proposed restrictions that would have required women to wait 96 hours before an abortion, banned clinics from “advertising” abortion services, and required women to justify their reasons for seeking an abortion.
It was one of several bills proposing restrictions on reproductive rights that were rejected in Slovakia’s parliament in 2019 and 2020.

In the past decade, several countries including ArmeniaRussia, and Georgia introduced preconditions that women must fulfill before they can obtain abortion services.

In other countries attempts to roll back abortion rights have been largely unsuccessful, often following a public outcry and large-scale demonstrations, but “they provide a powerful illustration of the extent and nature of the backlash to the advancement of women’s rights and gender equality in some parts of Europe,” according to a 2017 paper published by the Council of Europe Commissioner for Human Rights.

“A lot of countries in Europe are promoting women’s roles as procreators and as wives and mothers,” Hillary Margolis, senior researcher in women’s rights division at Human Rights Watch, told CNN.
“There are different ways these attacks are happening, they’re not always about blatantly rolling back abortion,” said Margolis.
In Germany, where abortion is relatively accessible, information dissemination or advertising by service providers is banned, although doctors may now state they provide the service on their websites, and this has been exploited by anti-abortion groups, she said.
In 2019, two gynecologists were fined in Berlin for “advertising” abortion — and this was widely reported as having stemmed from efforts by anti-abortion activists. Other gynecologists have also been reported by anti-abortion campaigners, according to local media.

An anti-abortion protest "National March for Life," demanding a ban on abortions, in Bratislava, Slovakia on September 2019. An anti-abortion protest “National March for Life,” demanding a ban on abortions, in Bratislava, Slovakia on September 2019.

Croatia and Italy have seen extensive use of the “conscience clause,” which allows providers to opt out of offering terminations because of moral objections, Margolis added.
Despite the backlash, human rights lawyer Payal Shah told CNN that it was important to remember there is a “clear global trajectory towards abortion law liberalization.”
“Over the last 25 years nearly 50 countries have actually liberalized their laws and several others have even removed abortion wholesale from their criminal codes,” she said.
New Zealand, Northern Ireland, and most Australian states have decriminalized abortion to remove sanctions.
Countries including Ireland and Cyprus have liberalized to allow abortion up to certain gestational limits, and the likes of France and Germany have introduced reforms to remove barriers — but criminal sanctions are still possible outside certain parameters. There have even been steps to make abortion more accessible in countries with restrictive laws, such as the Philippines and Colombia.
Other countries such as the UK, Ireland and France have temporarily amended laws during the pandemic to allow abortion pills to be taken at home.
But activists say abortion laws still need updating in many countries to remove barriers. And steps taken by developed countries to reduce abortion access can have an impact on other parts of the world.
“The US is … really exporting its political agenda against abortion … under this administration,” said Shah. “The US has lost its legitimacy as a leader in reproductive rights.”

Global attitudes about abortions

Another element affecting abortion access worldwide is the fact that the US is a big donor to NGOs globally but this has been scaled back under President Donald Trump. He reinstated, expanded and renamed a restriction formerly known as the Mexico City Policy — which prohibits foreign NGOs from receiving US funds if they provide abortion services or referrals. Critics refer to it as the Global Gag Rule.
The sector has seen a loss of funding, with services scaled back, leading to greater need in communities, Sarah Shaw, global head of advocacy at Marie Stopes International, an NGO organization that provides abortion services, told CNN.
She said the rule was also damaging partnerships and perceptions around sexual and reproductive health and rights. “This is the bit that’s really sort of starting to change norms and has a really corrosive effect.”
Contrary to what might be expected, research shows that in countries most reliant on US funding, abortions increase by 40% when the policy is in place.
Countries that liberalize their laws to increase access usually see the number of abortions drop, thanks in part to increased education, says Shaw.
Most people are in favor of at least some access to abortion. A recent Ipsos Global Advisor survey of nearly 17,500 people from 25 countries found that 44% said abortion should be permitted whenever a woman wants one and 26% said it should be permitted under certain circumstances, such as if a woman has been raped.”
A 2018 Pew Research Center poll found that 58% of Americans surveyed say abortion should be legal in all or most cases, compared with 37% who said it should be illegal in all or most cases.
And 2018 Gallup polling found that 60% of American adults think first trimester abortions should generally be legal. In another Gallup poll the same year 64% of those questioned said they didn’t want Roe vs. Wade — which guarantees the right to an abortion in the first trimester — to be overturned.
Looking ahead, Wydrzynska says, “We are not worrying about the future.” She is continuing her work with the Abortion Dream Team to help women travel abroad, obtain the abortion pill or find other services and information on terminations. “We have been preparing for most of this.”
She says her team has been traveling Poland since December last year “activating the people in local communities” to become abortion activists and supporters.
“We are not seeking people to work because we have them on our side, months ago.”

What If Women’s Suffrage Never Happened?

There’s a tendency, when looking back on the history of women’s suffrage in the United States, to assume that it was inevitable that women would get the right to vote: By the time Tennessee became the final state to ratify the 19th Amendment, on August 18, 1920, 15 states had already granted women suffrage, starting with Wyoming, which became a state in 1890. (As a territory, it gave women suffrage in 1869.) How long could such an electoral-rights imbalance reasonably be expected to survive?

Then again, was it really inevitable? The amendment’s passage was the culmination of probably the longest sustained sociopolitical movement in American history, and even so it came down to a single 24-year-old Tennessee state legislator’s vote—changed from nay to aye after his mother wrote him a letter lobbying him to do so—or it wouldn’t have happened, at least not in 1920. And even then, the 19th Amendment hardly put an end to systematic disenfranchisement (and not only of women) in this country. On a practical basis, Black women in the South, and to some extent Black women anywhere, still didn’t get to exercise their right to vote (as Black men hadn’t and didn’t)—not until the Voting Rights Act of 1965 swept away many of the tactics vote suppressors had used for decades to thwart them. Native American women (along with Native American men) didn’t get the vote until 1924, when their citizenship was recognized (they weren’t guaranteed the right to vote in every state until 1962); all Asian-American citizens didn’t get the vote until 1952, when the McCarran-Walter Act granted all people of Asian ancestry the right to become citizens. As an additional point of comparison, women in Switzerland were not granted the right to cast a ballot in their national elections until 1971. Imagine how different this country might be—socially, culturally, politically—if women had been forced to wait 51 more years before successfully seizing the right to exercise their power at the polls. Imagine how different things might be if women never got that right.

Demonstrators in support of the Equal Rights Amendment for women in 1981; Republicans dropped their support of the ERA in 1980, for the first time in 40 years, one likely factor in the subsequent widening of the gender gap.

Dave Buresh / The Denver Post / Getty Images

The contemplation of hypothetical, alternative histories—the conjuring of counterfactual scenarios and the spinning of stories about what the world and our lives might be like if this, this, or this had happened or not—is an endlessly fascinating pastime. (The “What if the Nazis had won?” alternative-history subgenre has lately seen a particularly strong resurgence with the bingeworthy Hollywood adaptations of The Man in the High Castle and The Plot Against America.) It’s also a deeply fraught exercise, with each counterfactual pivot triggering an endless range of possible implications and outcomes, each of which in turn sets in motion its own innumerable ripples of “what if.” We can’t say definitively how a century of women voting has shaped the world we live in or what that world would look like in its absence. But we can crunch some numbers and offer some data-driven possibilities. We can, for instance, examine state-by-state exit polling from presidential elections to see whether and how the Electoral College might have swung if men alone had wielded the ballot.

And when we do so, here is what we find: Women’s and men’s votes have been diverging in significant ways for several decades, so much so that at least two relatively recent elections might very well have gone the other way—from the Democratic candidate to the Republican—if women had still been barred from the polls on election day.


For a while after the 19th Amendment went into effect, it looked as if the entry of women into the electorate would have little or no tangible impact at all. Women didn’t vote at nearly the level men did—36 percent of eligible women cast a ballot in 1920, versus 68 percent of men—and when they did vote, they tended to do so pretty much as men did. “Suffragists get a bad rap because the amendment passes, and then the world doesn’t change,” says Susan Ware, author of Why They Marched: Untold Stories of the Women Who Fought for the Right to Vote. “It wasn’t as if all of a sudden women threw all the politicians out of office and decided to end war and end prostitution and all these things. But suffragists never claimed that the world would change. They didn’t say women would vote as a bloc and war would end.”

President Bill Clinton works the crowd in Iowa in 1996 before he beat Republican Bob Dole—thanks to women. Women have turned out at a greater rate than men in every presidential election since 1984.

Paul J. Richards / Getty Images

In some ways, the specter of a woman’s vote seems almost to have had more power than the vote itself—at first. “Right after 1920, we get the Sheppard-Towner Act, which provides support for mothers and infant care,” says Christina Wolbrecht, director of the Rooney Center for the Study of American Democracy at the University of Notre Dame and co-author of A Century of Votes for Women: American Elections Since Suffrage (which is where the 1920 voter-turnout stats above come from). “We also get the Cable Act, which says that if you’re a woman and you marry a foreigner, you don’t immediately lose your American citizenship. And then it turned out that women didn’t vote that differently than men and most of them stayed home, so politicians decided that they weren’t really a threat anymore, and so we don’t really need to pay as much attention to their agenda items. So you don’t see as much of those issues in the ’30s and into the ’40s.”

But what you do see in the ’30s and ’40s is women deploying a political savvy honed during the long campaign for suffrage, gathering and exercising a type of soft power to mold policy and shape national agendas from positions just out of the spotlight. “When we think about the impact of women’s suffrage,” Wolbrecht says, “an obvious focus is outcomes of elections. But we also might ask about something we would call in political science the second face of power. One face of power is, something is being debated and you can determine the winner or the loser. The second face of power is just getting that thing to be talked about in public life, to be on the political agenda. And by becoming voters, women had more power to influence the political agenda.”

Ware offers the Social Security Act as an example of this sort of exercise of soft power. “The secretary of labor at the time that was passed was Frances Perkins, the first woman to serve in the cabinet,” she says. “And Frances Perkins was a former suffragist.” (In fact, so pervasive was Perkins’s influence on the blossoming of social programs during the FDR administration that Collier’s magazine would later describe those accomplishments as “not so much the Roosevelt New Deal as…the Perkins New Deal.”)

Men and women voted similarly in the early days after suffrage, but all the while women such as Frances Perkins (above), FDR’s secretary of labor and the first woman to hold a cabinet post, were shaping policy and laying the groundwork for future influence. (Data courtesy of political scientist Kevin Corder.)

Bettmann / Getty Images

But for the most part, if your hopes as a suffragist, or your aims as a counterfactualist, are to find in the early decades of women’s voting evidence that the ballot was a power wielded by women to bring about sociopolitical change, you are doomed to disappointment. “In eras where there’s a lot of traditional ‘family values’ conservatism, where men are the primary breadwinners, stay-at-home women will support the conservative party very strongly,” says Kevin Corder, a professor of political science at Western Michigan University and co-author with Wolbrecht of A Century of Votes for Women. “In countries where they introduced suffrage at a time when you had a lot of traditional values, women were overwhelmingly voting for the conservative party. And that’s what the U.S. electorate in the ’50s did.”

In fact, to the extent that there was a partisan gender gap—a measurable difference between women’s and men’s relative support for the same candidate—throughout the 1950s and into the early ’60s, it showed a tendency for a slightly higher proportion of women than men to vote Republican. That changed by 1964, with both women and men favoring Lyndon Johnson in his trouncing of Barry Goldwater and women favoring the Democrat to a slightly greater degree, a pivot that heralded what became a slowly growing schism between the sexes, driven by some combination of men migrating rightward and women leftward.

share of the two party vote by gender from 1948 1972
An election official at the polls in 1957 New York City. In some states, Black voters were shut out decades after women’s suffrage was won, but the passage of the Voting Rights Act in 1965 opened up the electorate to far greater numbers of Black women.

Thomas J. O’Halloran / Getty Images

“The 1960s is also when the parties become sharply defined on social welfare,” Wolbrecht says. “One party says government is the problem; the other says government is the solution. If you’re economically vulnerable, the party that wants to have a social safety net may be more attractive to you. But even for women who are not economically vulnerable, something like 60 to 70 percent of the growth in middle-class women’s employment comes from the public sector. They are the public schoolteachers for the baby-boom kids. They’re the nurses in public hospitals. They are the social workers in all of these Great Society programs. They’re all these sorts of things that make their own economic interests much more linked to an active federal government.”

There is an insistent article of faith among scholars of women’s suffrage that goes like this: “Women” is not a voting bloc. “The category of ‘women,’ when it comes to voting, is just too broad,” Ware says. “I’ll give you two examples. One is the suffrage movement itself, where you had women who were for the vote and a lot who were against it. And the Equal Rights Amendment, where you had a lot of feminists struggling for the ERA and then you had antifeminists who were vehemently opposed to it. You have to be very, very careful about talking about women as a group and any expectation that there would be a women’s bloc; it just doesn’t hold up.” And with the passage of the Voting Rights Act in 1965 opening the electorate up to far greater numbers of Black women, it would soon become clear just how absurd it is to think that women all vote the same.


Ronald Reagan’s 489–49 electoral-vote shellacking of Jimmy Carter in the 1980 presidential election was fueled, not surprisingly, by support from both men and women. What was surprising, or at least notable, was the difference in the scope of support for Reagan between the sexes. Reagan outpolled Carter among men by a whopping 55–38 margin (Independent candidate John Anderson took 7 percent of the votes); among women, Reagan barely squeaked out a 47–46 victory. Feminists seized on the eight-point (55 versus 47 percent) “gender gap” in votes for Reagan (Eleanor Smeal, president of the National Organization for Women at the time, is generally credited with coining the term) as a way to highlight the importance of the women’s vote and of promoting policies that women care about. (This came at a time when the parties were becoming distinctly polarized around some of those issues; Republicans removed support for the Equal Rights Amendment from their party platform in 1980 for the first time in 40 years.)

Republican presidential candidate George H.W. Bush and VP pick Dan Quayle (with wife Marilyn) at the Republican National Convention in 1988. The gender gap waxed and waned until 1996, when men shifted dramatically toward the GOP and women moved toward the Democratic Party. The gap is still widening.

Cynthia Johnson / The LIFE Images Collection / Getty Images
Did candidates take note? They certainly did, though what’s less clear is how successful they were at figuring out just what those issues that matter most to women voters are—which may have something to do with the fact that “women” is not a voting bloc. In 1984, Walter Mondale went so far as to choose Geraldine Ferraro as his running mate, the first woman ever to appear on a major-party ticket. Reagan went ahead and trounced him by an even more lopsided margin than he had Carter four years earlier, 525–13, with Mondale taking only the District of Columbia and his home state of Minnesota.

The gender gap waxed and waned, though mostly waned, until 1996, when Bill Clinton ran for his second term, against Bob Dole, and the gap ballooned to 11 percent. The interesting thing about this particular shift is what it reveals about the dynamics that underpin it. In the previous election, the gap had been only 4 points, with both women and men favoring Clinton over George H.W. Bush—women giving Clinton 45 percent of their vote and men 41. (The numbers are skewed by the fact that H. Ross Perot performed so well as a third-party candidate, taking 21 percent of men’s votes and 17 percent of women’s.) “What happens in 1996,” Wolbrecht says, “is that women become more Democratic, but it’s also that many men returned to the Republican Party.” This is an important point: The gender gap is not just about how women vote. As Wolbrecht puts it, “1996 is such a great example of how the gender gap can be driven by both men and women.”

If just men had voted in 1996, Dole would have squeezed out a 272–266 victory over Clinton.

And those antipodal shifts by men, in turn, lead us to the first of our “What if women never got the right to vote?” electoral overturns: A close examination of state-by-state exit-poll numbers indicates that if women hadn’t voted in 1996, Bob Dole would have flipped the results in nine states and won a narrow victory, depriving Clinton of a second term. Here are a few other things that an all-male electorate would have deprived Clinton of: credit for four straight years of budget surpluses and the longest uninterrupted economic expansion in U.S. history; a successfully negotiated end to the war in Kosovo; and making Madeline Albright the first female secretary of state. Dole would have enjoyed Republican control of both houses of Congress, giving him the opportunity, perhaps, to achieve more in his first term than Clinton was able to in his second, so maybe he would have managed to abolish the four cabinet departments (Housing and Urban Development, Energy, Commerce, and Education) he had in his sights or to sign a bill (like the one Clinton vetoed toward the end of his first term) to allow drilling in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. One distraction he (and the country) likely would not have faced: the impeachment of a sitting president. Monica Lewinsky would probably not have become the household name she did. And who knows what impact all that might have had on Hillary Clinton’s political career.

Of course, if that’s the way history had actually gone, all bets would be off for how subsequent elections would have unfolded—since two Dole terms means no George W. Bush hanging-chad victory in 2000, and on and on. So let’s file Dole’s 1996 triumph away in the annals of alternative history and travel ahead another 16 years to take a look at the second upset the all-male electorate would have bestowed. This one, again, is the denial of a second term to a Democratic president, with Mitt Romney snatching nine additional states away from Barack Obama in 2012 and scoring a 322–216 Electoral College win. Here are a few things that happened in Obama’s second term that might thus have vanished into the alternative-history mists: the Iran Nuclear Deal, the Clean Power Plan, the Paris climate accord. One other thing that almost certainly would have gone away if Romney had run in 2016 for his second term: the presidency of Donald Trump. (Didn’t we warn you this was a fraught exercise?)

If just men had voted in 2012, Romney would have defeated Obama 322–216. If just white women had voted, the spread would have grown to 346–192.

To illuminate the influence of women’s votes on presidential elections from a different angle, we also crunched the numbers on the opposite postulate: What if only women had the right to vote? A few highlights: Bill Clinton beats George H.W. Bush by a lot more in 1992 and absolutely demolishes Bob Dole in ’96; Al Gore wins with a comfortable 368 electoral votes (and no need for a Supreme Court intercession) in 2000; John Kerry claims a victory in 2004; Obama cruises to two terms; and Hillary Clinton actually does become the first woman president in U.S. history, beating Donald Trump 412–126 and presumably presiding this year over many joyous celebrations of the centennial of women’s suffrage.

Senator John Kerry kicking off his campaign in 2004 in Ohio. If it had been up to women voters, Kerry would have beaten George W. Bush.

Marc Andrew Deley / FilmMagic / Getty Images

If that litany of outcomes reinforces your belief that women have become a staunchly reliable source of Democratic votes…then you haven’t been paying close enough attention. Remember “‘Women’ is not a voting bloc”? Because a deeper crunch of the exit-poll data reveals just how consequential the passage of the 1965 Voting Rights Act truly was on the electoral calculus: It’s not “women” who, if they were the only ones with the vote, would have been responsible for sweeping an unbroken string of Democratic candidates into office over the past three decades; it’s Black women and, to a slightly lesser extent, other women of color. If the power to vote had been held by white women only, every presidential election over those 32 years would have had the same outcome, with one exception: Romney would have beaten Obama in 2012 (and by a bigger margin than if only men had voted in that election).

Trump would have won in 2016 by 51 more electoral votes than he did. It’s only the overwhelmingly Democratic votes of non-white women that push the overall category of “women voters” resolutely into the Democratic column. As University of Michigan political scientist Ken Kollman pithily sums up: “Trump won the majority of white women. He got slaughtered among Black women and Latina women.”

If just women had voted in 2016, Hillary Clinton would have decimated Trump, 412–126.
the demographic breakdown of voters in 2016
Jewel Samad / AFP / Getty Images
the makeup of hillary clinton voters 2016
Scott Olson / Getty Images

Above: In 2016, nonwhite women made up 16 percent of all voters yet contributed to 26 percent of Clinton’s total votes. If just white women had voted, Trump would have won by an additional 51 electoral votes.

Kollman is far from alone among electoral scholars in anticipating the possibility that the 2020 election might emerge as a gender-gap pivot point—and a harbinger of challenging times to come for the Republican Party. “The data show that Trump is uniquely disliked by women,” he says. “And a lot of that is driven by women under 45. The partisan gap between men and women is increasing in the population as a whole, but it’s really a big step by generation. You go down in age and the gap gets bigger and bigger and bigger. And the modern Republican Party is in trouble. It’s not just that young people are being driven away from the Republican Party, which is true, but that young women are being dramatically driven away from the Republican Party.”


Heading into this centennial year for women’s suffrage, Susan Ware would find herself trying to conjure in her imagination a society where women can’t vote. “I went to my first feminist demonstration in 1970, on the 50th anniversary of women voting,” she says. “That’s not that long ago! I was born in 1950, and women had been voting for only 30 years, and that seems really bizarre to me. I haven’t found a really good way of conveying this to people, but just try to imagine a landscape where half the population is arbitrarily denied the right to vote because of their sex. To me, that’s the importance of suffrage: that we got past that hurdle.”

turnout of eligible women voters by race from 2008 2016
Then-candidate Barack Obama speaks to supporters in 2008. If only white women had voted in 2012, Mitt Romney would have denied Obama a second term.

Scott Olson / Getty Images

Ware, who has spent much of her career writing about the early suffragists, also likes to torture herself by trying to imagine what her biographical subjects would make of how far—or not—the country has come since 1920: “If I could bring my women up to the present and say, ‘All right, here’s where we are 100 years later,’ what would they think? Would they say, ‘Way to go, this is much further than we expected!’ or would they say, ‘Come on, Susan, not enough has happened.’ I go back and forth.”

One thing she does know, though, is that the right to vote, and to have a voice, is not something to be won and then taken for granted. “The suffragists needed to get women the vote, and it was a hard and a long struggle, and then it’s been up to women in the years since to figure out what they want to do with it,” Ware says. “And that process is still ongoing. And it will be going on long after I’m not here. But I see myself as being part of something bigger. And I see the centennial as being part of something bigger. I would hope that maybe you will get your readers thinking about that. And then the last line of your story has to be to remind them to vote no matter what.”

Oxford dictionaries change ‘sexist’ and outdated definitions of the word ‘woman’

From CNN/By Christina Zdanowicz/ November 9, 2020

https://www.cnn.com/2020/11/09/world/woman-definition-revised-oxford-dictionary-trnd/index.html

(CNN)Even the dictionary can be sexist and out of date, especially when it comes to how a “woman” is described.

Earlier this year, Oxford University Press changed its entry for “woman” in its dictionaries, including the Oxford English Dictionary, to include more positive ways to describe a female.
“We have expanded the dictionary coverage of ‘woman’ with more examples and idiomatic phrases which depict women in a positive and active manner,” according to a statement from OUP. “We have ensured that offensive synonyms or senses are clearly labelled as such and only included where we have evidence of real world usage.”
Phrases such as “woman of the moment” were added to equal the old saying of the “man of the moment.” And one of the definitions of “woman” now refers to a “person’s wife, girlfriend, or female lover,” as opposed to being tied to only a man.
The definition for “man” was updated to include gender-neutral terms and references to “sexual attractiveness or activity” were revised for “man” and “woman” entries.
OUP said its lexicographers regularly review entries to make sure they are accurate. This time around, the voice of the people helped create change, an OUP spokeswoman told CNN in an email Monday.
“Sometimes the team focus on topics highlighted by user feedback (such as last year’s petition about the definition of ‘woman’) and sometimes these topics are driven by current events or through projects taking place within the Oxford Languages team,” the spokeswoman wrote.
She sited work the organization has done on words relating to race, racial diversity and the use of “they” as a pronoun for nonbinary people as other examples this year.
Change.org petition in 2019 called for OUP to remove “sexist” terms for a woman. Tens of thousands of people signed it.
The suggestive phrases about women included: “Ms September will embody the professional, intelligent yet sexy career woman;” “I told you to be home when I get home, little woman;” and “If that does not work, they can become women of the streets.”
While the OED itself does not feature these definitions above, they do appear in other reference books produced by the publisher, as well as online dictionary Lexico, which takes its content from OUP dictionaries.
“Our dictionaries reflect, rather than dictate, how language is used,” OUP wrote in the statement. “This is driven solely by evidence of how real people use English in their daily lives.”
With that in mind, lexicographers reviewed examples in its dictionary data to make sure representations of woman were “positive and active,” the organization said.
The review looked at the definitions of “man” and “woman,” as well as the examples of the word being used in a sentence, labels and synonyms. It also looked at entries that are associated with women.
Labels were added to “offensive, derogatory, or dated” terms. The synonyms were also evaluated to make sure they are genuine synonyms.
The synonyms for “woman” had listed “wench,” “piece” and other derogatory terms last year. Some of those synonyms in the OED were removed and others have a label, such as the the word “bitch” being an offensive one.
The definition of “housework” was updated to take gender out of the equation in the dictionaries. “She still does all the housework,” was changed to “I was busy doing housework when the doorbell rang.”
The organization says all of this is part of the ongoing effort to “re-examine” language and labeling to make sure it’s up to date for a “modern audience.”

why germans love getting naked

After four years of living in Berlin, I’ve learned to embrace Germany’s anything-goes sprit and more casual approach to nudity than where I grew up in the Midwestern US.

You never forget your first time confronted by public nudity

While nudity in mainstream American culture is generally considered to be sexual, here in Germany, stripping down isn’t uncommon in certain everyday situations. I’ve grown used to nude-by-default saunas; taken dips in pools where swimming suits were birthday suits; and surprised a massage therapist when I disrobed unprompted before a treatment, leading him to remark that Americans usually need to be asked to take off their clothes.

In Berlin and many other German cities, it’s not uncommon to stumble upon nude sunbathers in parks (Credit: ImageBroker/Alamy)

But, as the saying kind of goes, you never forget your first time confronted by public nudity. My introduction came during a jog through Hasenheide, a park in Berlin’s southern Neukölln district, when I came across a cluster of nude bodies taking in the bright afternoon sun. Later, after speaking with friends and acquiring a fairly questionable Google search history, I found out that stumbling across an au naturel enclave in a city park or beach is practically a rite of passage in Berlin.

Stripping down to your essence in the natural world has historically been an act of both resistance and relief

What I’d seen wasn’t part of Berlin’s hedonistic side, however, but an example of Freikörperkultur, or “free-body culture”. FKK, as it’s usually shortened to, is associated closely with life in the German Democratic Republic (East Germany or “GDR”), but nudism in Germany as a public practice stretches back to the late 19th Century. And unlike, say, taking off your top at a beach in Spain, FKK encompasses a broader German movement with a distinct spirit, where stripping down to your essence in the natural world has historically been an act of both resistance and relief.

“Nudism has had a long tradition in Germany,” said Arnd Bauerkämper, associate professor of modern history at Freie University in Berlin. At the turn of the 20th Century, Lebensreform (“life reform”) was in the air, a philosophy that advocated for organic food, sexual liberation, alternative medicine and simpler living closer to nature. “Nudism is part of this broader movement, which was directed against industrial modernity, against the new society that emerged in the late 19th Century,” Bauerkämper said.

Free-body culture – or “FKK” – is practiced at many designated beaches, campgrounds and parks across Germany (Credit: Ageofstock/Alamy)

According to Hanno Hochmuth, a historian at the Leibniz Centre for Contemporary History Potsdam, this reform movement took particular hold in larger cities, including Berlin, despite its romanticising of country living. During the Weimar Era (1918-1929), FKK beaches populated by “a very, very small minority” of sunbathing members of the bourgeois sprang up. According to Bauerkämper, there was a “sense of new freedom after the authoritarian society and suffocating conservative values of Imperial Germany (1878 to 1918).”

In 1926, Alfred Koch founded the Berlin School of Nudism to encourage mixed-gender nudist exercise, continuing the belief that outdoor nudity promoted harmony with nature and wellness benefits. And while Nazi ideology initially prohibited FKK, viewing it as a spring of immorality, Hochmuth explained that by 1942 the Third Reich had softened its public nudity restrictions – though, of course, that tolerance wasn’t extended to groups the Nazis persecuted, like Jews and communists.

But it wasn’t until the decades after Germany’s post-war division into East and West that FKK really blossomed, particularly in the East – though embracing getting naked was no longer restricted to the bourgeois class. For Germans living in the communist GDR, where travel, personal liberties and sales of consumer goods were curtailed, FKK functioned in part as a “safety valve,” according to Bauerkämper; a way to let off tension in a deeply restrictive state by providing a bit of “free movement”.

FKK culture blossomed in East Germany, where it served as an escape from the repressive communist government (Credit: ImageBroker/Alamy)

Hochmuth, who visited nude beaches with his parents as a child growing up in East Berlin agrees. “There was some sense of escapism,” he said. “[East Germans] were always exposed to all these demands of the Communist Party and what they had to do, like going to party rallies or being asked to perform communal tasks on weekends without pay.”

There was some sense of escapism

While rogue East Germans continued bathing in the buff in the GDR’s early years – while keeping an eye out for patrolling policemen – it wasn’t until after Erich Honecker took power in 1971 that FKK would officially be allowed again. According to Bauerkämper, under Honecker the GDR began a process of opening up foreign and domestic policies, a tactic meant to make itself look more favourable to the outside world.

“For the GDR it was quite useful to argue that, ‘OK, we are allowing and even encouraging nudism, we are kind of a free society’,” said Bauerkämper.

In the 1970s and ’80s, the strict East German government allowed residents to practice FKK as a way to appear more open to the world (Credit: Kuttig/Alamy)

Since East Germany merged with the larger West in 1990 and restrictions lifted in the former communist state, FKK culture has declined. In the 1970s and ‘80s, hundreds of thousands of nudists packed campgrounds, beaches and parks. In 2019, the German Association for Free Body Culture counted only 30,000-plus registered members – many of whom were in their 50s and 60s.

Yet today, FKK continues to leave an impression on German culture, particularly in the former East. It even manages to make the occasional viral headline, such as when a naked man in an FKK-designated area at a Berlin lake this summer was forced to give chase to a wild boar that had run off with a bag containing his laptop.

In fact, FKK and Germany’s longer tradition of nudism has left a widespread tolerance across the country for clothing-free spaces and public nudity as a form of wellness. As I discovered, FKK spaces can still be found without looking too hard, and they’re often tied to health pursuits.

If you are used to seeing people naked, you don’t give much thought about appearances

The listings site Nacktbaden.de offers a well-organised list of beaches and parks throughout Germany where you can sunbathe nude; strip down at saunas and spas; or go for hikes in the buff in places like the Harz Mountains, Bavarian Alps or the forests of Saxony-Anhalt. Or, if you want to be a bit more formal about it, the sporting club FSV Adolf Koch offers nude yoga, volleyball, badminton and table tennis in Berlin.

In many ways, the FKK legacy gives travellers an insight into values that still unite many East Germans. For Sylva Sternkopf, who grew up going to FKK beaches in East Germany, the country’s free-body culture has both reflected and imparted certain values that she’s passing down to her children, particularly the country’s open-mindedness towards their own bodies.

Today, Germany’s history of public nudity has fostered a broader open-mindedness towards body positivity (Credit: NurPhoto/Getty Images)

“I think this is still very deeply rooted in my generation in East Germany,” she said. “I also try to give this on to my children, to raise them in this way of being open towards your own body and not being ashamed of being yourself and being naked, of showing yourself naked.”

For Sternkopf, seeing nude bodies in a non-sexualised way also helps people learn to see others beyond their outer appearances. By baring it all, it makes it easier to see not just a body, but the individual.

“If you are used to seeing people naked, you don’t give much thought about appearances,” she said. “I think this is something that is more widespread in East Germany in general: we try to judge people not for their outer appearance, but we always try to look underneath.

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Kamala Harris in a White Suit, Dressing for History

 From NYT/By .

https://www.nytimes.com/2020/11/08/fashion/kamala-harris-speech-suffrage.html

This wasn’t about fashion, it was about politics, past and future.

Vice President-elect Kamala Harris wore a white pantsuit with a white pussy-bow blouse when she and President-elect Joseph R. Biden Jr. spoke on Saturday night.Credit…Erin Schaff/The New York Times

On Saturday night, when Kamala Harris stepped onto the stage and into history at the Chase Center in Wilmington, Del., as Vice President-elect of the United States, she did so in full recognition of the weight of the moment, and in full acknowledgment of all who came before. Of the fact she is so many firsts: first woman to be vice president, first woman of color to be vice president, first woman of South Asian descent, first daughter of immigrants. She is the representation of so many promises finally fulfilled, so many hopes and dreams.

How do you begin to express that understanding; embody the city shining on a hill? For the next four years, that will be part of the job.

She said it — “while I may be the first woman in this office, I will not be the last” — and she signaled it, wearing something she had not worn in any of her moments of firsts since she joined Mr. Biden as his No. 2 (or, indeed, in the months before when she was running for the Democratic nomination herself): a white pantsuit with a white silk pussy-bow blouse. Two garments that have been alternately fraught and celebrated symbols of women’s rights for decades, but which over the last four years have taken on even more potency and power.

The white pantsuit: a nod to the struggle to break the final glass ceiling, stretching from the suffragists through Geraldine Ferraro, Hillary Clinton, Nancy Pelosi and the women of Congress. A garment in a color meant, as an early mission statement for the Congressional Union for Woman Suffrage published in 1913 read, to symbolize “the quality of our purpose.” Latterly redolent with frustration; now, finally, transformed into a beacon of achievement.

Hillary Clinton, after accepting the nomination for president at the Democratic National Convention in Philadelphia in 2016.Credit…Stephen Crowley/The New York Times

The pussy-bow blouse: the quintessential working woman’s uniform in the years when they began to flood into the professional sphere; the female version of the tie; the power accessory of Margaret Thatcher, the first female British prime minister. And then, suddenly, a potentially subversive double entendre in the hands of Melania Trump, who wore a pussy-bow blouse after her husband’s “grab ’em by the pussy” scandal.

The point was not who made the clothes; it wasn’t about marketing a brand (though, on the subject of “building back better,” the suit was by Carolina Herrera, an American business). The point was that to wear those clothes — to make those choices — on a night when the world was watching, in a moment that would be frozen for all time, was not fashion. It was politics. It was for posterity.

Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher in 1987, with her trademarks: wool skirt suit, tie blouse, pearls and handbag.Credit…John Redman/Associated Press
Kamala Harris and Joe Biden in Wilmington, Del., on Friday.Credit…Erin Schaff/The New York Times

And it was the beginning of what will be four years in which everything Ms. Harris does matters. Obviously, what she wears is only a small part of it. But in her first-ness, in her ascent to the highest realms on power, she will become a model for what that means. How, as a woman, as a Black woman, you claim your seat at the highest table. Clothes are a part of that story. In some ways, they are how those at faraway tables connect to it.

Yes, what Mr. Biden wears matters, too. His aviators have become practically his doppelgänger; the blue tie he wore on Saturday night, representative both of his party and the blue skies to (they hope) come. Presidents have always used clothing as part of their political toolbox. John Kennedy distinguished himself from the generation that came before by opting for single-breasted suits instead of the more formal double-breasted styles favored by Roosevelt and Truman.

Barack Obama did the same by often abandoning the tie. George W. Bush wore his cowboy boots as a badge of origin and attitude. Donald Trump used his overly long, five-alarm-red ties to signal masculinity and send everyone down a master of the universe wormhole.

But what Ms. Harris wears, and will wear, could matter more. Why should we pretend otherwise?

(A website, WhatKamalaWore, has already sprung up to keep track.)

As Dominique and François Gaulme wrote in the 2012 book “Power & Style: A World History of Politics and Style,” clothing, from its earliest origins, was developed “to communicate, even more clearly than in writing, the social organizations and distribution of political power.”

And when the person possessed of that power is a pioneer, when she is defining a new kind of leadership, understanding those lines of communications and how to employ them is key. Not because she is a woman, but because she will be the first woman vice president.

Hillary Clinton came to understand this, over a career in which at first she seemed to dismiss fashion and then, as first lady, to resent it, before finally embracing it as a useful tool.

Democrats in the House before the State of the Union address on Feb. 5, 2019.Credit…Erin Schaff for The New York Times
Nannie Helen Burroughs (left, holding banner, circa 1910) was an advocate for women’s suffrage.Credit…Library of Congress

It began when she joined Twitter in 2013 with a biographical note that included the descriptors “pantsuit aficionado” and “hair icon,” along with “FLOTUS,” and “SecState.” When she started her Instagram account in 2015, her first post was a photo of a clothing rail with an assortment of red, white and blue jackets and the caption, “Hard choices.” During an Al Smith dinner before the 2016 election, she joked that she liked to refer to tuxedos as “formal pantsuits.” She weaponized her clothing as necessary.

This is an option of which Ms. Harris herself is well aware. She has embraced the political pantsuit tradition presaged in 1874 at the first National Convention of the Dress Reform League, when, as reported in The New York Times, one attendee declared: “This reform means trousers. They are freedom to us, and they afford us protection! Trousers are coming.” But she did not partake in the Crayola-colored pantsuit tradition of the generation before: Hillary Clinton and Angela Merkel.

After Election Day, speaking in Wilmington, Del.Credit…Erin Schaff/The New York Times
After Election Day, before the victory.Credit…Erin Schaff/The New York Times

Though Ms. Harris has been lauded for her love of Converse (and talked about her Chuck Taylors more than any other item of clothing), and for her Timberlands, when it comes to professional situations, she has usually favored a uniform of dark colors — black, navy, burgundy, maroon, gray — with matching shell blouses, pumps and pearls. Those were the suits she wore at the Democratic National Convention and at the debates.

Often they were by New York designers (Prabal Gurung, Joseph Altuzarra), but they never looked overly fashion. They looked serious, prepared, no-nonsense. She even wore a black suit to the 2019 State of the Union, when many of her fellow congresswomen had banded together to wear white.

So her choice, this time, to finally join that tradition could not have been an accident. (Her two young grand-nieces, one of whom had recently featured in a YouTube video talking about her desire to be president, also wore white.) It was deliberate. Not to credit that is to give her less credit than she is due.

Vice President-elect Kamala Harris and her grand-nieces celebrate after she spoke at the Chase Center.Credit…Erin Schaff/The New York Times

Perhaps, rather, it is a signal of what to expect. That she will go on as she has, with practical, elegant suits that don’t get in the way of her day or require much response from the peanut gallery. (We, in turn, can get back to Kimye.) That the details — the pearls, the pumps, the sneakers — will matter. And that then, every once in a while and when the situation and theater calls for it, she will deploy a sartorial surgical strike that hits everyone where it counts.

Through the Window

The first photograph taken by NIEPCE around 1826-1827. View from the place where he took it.

USA. New York City. 1959. Sammy DAVIS Jr. looks out a Manhattan window.

The Midlands, 1964.
New housing development.

CANADA. Lambton County, Ontario. 1974.

USA. New York City. 1976. Windows on the World owner Joe Baum, silhouetted against view from the restaurant.

Mali. Town of Gao. 1988.
Terrace of a local hotel.

 USA. Detroit, Michigan. 1988. A state school for orphans.

GB. England. ‘I don’t think it’s anything particularly forced on Deborah. We’ve just always enjoyed the same sort of things.’ From ‘Signs of the Times’. 1991.

USA. Brooklyn, NY. 2009. Marion on bed.

USA. NYC. 2016. Tatyana Enkin and Warren Estis at their home on the 86th floor of the Trump Tower at United Nations Plaza

USA. NYC. June 21st, 2017.

FRANCE. Paris. 2019. DAU cinematic project.

超凡魅力 重“芯”出发 帝舵骏珏双位日历型

正如glamour一词的主要含义是“迷人”和“魅力”,被冠以glamour之名的帝舵骏珏系列腕表也在不断地将专业的制表工艺与现代设计相结合,打造出高级腕表的迷人魅力。

源自1926年的瑞士高级腕表品牌帝舵,最初是由劳力士创始人汉斯‧威尔斯多夫(Hans Wilsdorf)注册,并于1946年正式成为MONTRES TUDOR SA帝舵表公司。其产品沿袭劳力士所尊崇的品质理念,且售价更为平易近人。在过去的数十年间,帝舵表一直忠实地扮演着自己的角色,以生产精致优雅、品质卓越、精准可靠、物超所值的机械腕表而著称。

 

经典款式  全面升级

2009年前后,伴随着“卓越于心,精致以形”的全新广告语,帝舵表开始在性能和美观之间建立起新的平衡点。接连推出的骏珏(Glamour)、碧湾(Black Bay)、启承(Heritage)、领潜(Pelagos)、皇家(Royal)等系列,无不是性能优良,富于表现力的作品,针对的主要是敢于展现个性与活力的都市年轻人。从2015年起,帝舵表开始在新款腕表中推广高素质的自产机械机芯。
近日,帝舵表发布了2020年度的最新作品——对深受消费者青睐的骏珏双位日历型(Glamour Double Date)进行了重新演绎。这款骏珏系列的代表作,是市面上少有的双位日历(又称大日历,即构成日历的十位数字和个位数字分别于独立的窗口运转和显示)配小秒针的款式。

帝舵由内而外,将机芯升级为高性能的原厂机芯,同时改用透明底盖(并兼顾防水性能),让人得以从腕表背面欣赏机芯的精美的结构和润饰工艺——这在帝舵腕表中实属罕见。

新款骏珏双位日历型还配备重新设计的中层表壳以及饰有精致细节的全新表盘,将帝舵表集技术与美学于一身的特质表现得淋漓尽致。

 

多种选择  精致设计

帝舵骏珏双位日历型腕表的直径为42毫米,分为精钢款和黄金钢款,并备有鳄鱼皮、精钢或黄金钢表带,以满足消费者个性化的着装需要。

相比于碧湾(Black Bay)、启承(Heritage)等偏运动或是复古风格的作品,骏珏系列传承的是帝舵表正装腕表的优雅特质及精湛的制表传统。基于这一理念,全新帝舵骏珏双位日历型的外观设计分外别致,每一处线条都经过精雕细琢。尤其是重新打造的中层表壳和双外圈,营造出独具特色的层次感。如你所见,磨光的精钢表壳曲线柔和延伸,与表圈边缘圆满融合。二者间彼此呼应,相得益彰,无需任何装饰便流露出符合现代审美的精致与高贵感。

骏珏双位日历型同时提供了银色、黑色、香槟色及蛋白色的表盘供选择。表盘呈现内外层的同心圆环,内环图案饰以纤薄的垂直长条形纹理,该纹理独树一帜,既可折射表面光线,又不至于喧宾夺主。外环图案则配以太阳光线效果的饰纹,并以修长的菱形钟点标记点缀,几何设计与日历窗相映成趣。

特大的双位日历窗横陈于表盘12点钟位置,上方为品牌的盾型徽记,下方为TODUR的品牌名称。不仅具备优雅和谐的比例,也为佩戴者提供了最为清晰的读数效果。小秒针位于6点钟位置,与蜗纹背景交相辉映。

 

原厂机芯 性能出众

帝舵表自问世以来,一直以美观和实用性兼备而著称,新款骏珏双位日历型也继承了这一传统。

腕表搭载帝舵表专为其研发的全新MT5641型自动机芯。除了首次在原厂机芯中添加(双日历(12点钟位置)和小秒针(6点钟位置)外,MT5641型机芯还具备先进的瞬跳日历(期在午夜瞬间跳换)机制,并可通过表冠直接快调节日期。

MT5641型机芯的结构设计巧妙,确保坚固可靠、持久耐用,在机芯的打磨和外观方面也一丝不苟。镂空自动摆陀经磨砂工艺处理,搭配喷砂细节,夹板与主夹板上磨光及喷砂饰面相互交错,点缀激光饰纹。惯性微调平衡摆轮以坚固的双重夹板固定,并配备非磁性硅游丝。机芯获得瑞士精密时计测试中心(COSC)颁发的天文台认证,甚至达到了超出认证标准的-2/+4秒每天的误差范围。它还具备帝舵原厂机芯标配的70 小时长动力。换言之,如果在周五晚上摘下帝舵骏珏双位日历型腕表,到了周一早上只需戴上手腕即可正常使用,无需重新上链。

从技术、性能的角度,帝舵骏珏双位日历型腕表的无疑有着出类拔萃的水准;而从美学和工艺的角度,它的表现也同样令人信服,展现出骏珏(Glamour)系列应有的迷人魅力。

The US is officially out of the Paris Climate Agreement. Here’s what could happen next

From CNN/By Drew Kann/November 4, 2020

https://edition.cnn.com/2020/11/04/politics/us-exits-paris-climate-agreement-next-steps/index.html

(CNN)The US became the first country to officially exit the Paris climate accord Wednesday, the landmark agreement aimed at protecting the planet from the worsening impacts of the climate crisis.

But depending on the result of the presidential election, the US could swiftly rejoin with Democratic candidate Joe Biden pledging to reverse President Donald Trump’s decision to abandon the accord which was ratified by 189 countries.
After a year that’s seen record-breaking wildfires and a seemingly unending stream of hurricanes strike the Gulf Coast, the US is now the only country to formally pull out of the deal since it was adopted in 2015.
Under the rules of the agreement, a country cannot officially leave for one full year after notifying the UN of its intent to withdraw. The countdown to the US’ exit began on November 4, 2019, when the US sent notice of its plans to leave.
“The United States notified the United Nations of its withdrawal one year ago, on November 4, 2019. Per the terms of the Agreement, that withdrawal takes effect exactly one year after delivery of notification. Today — November 4, 2020 — the United States is no longer a Party to the Paris Agreement,” a US State Department spokesperson said Wednesday.
In some ways, today’s exit is a mere formality. Trump first announced his plans to get out of the agreement more than three years ago, and his administration has shown little interest in rejoining the global climate fight.
Whether it does — and what the trajectory of future global warming looks like — will likely both hinge on the outcome of the election.
Trump has given no indication that he intends to rejoin the accord if he wins a second term, and his administration has spent much of the last four years unwinding regulations aimed to reduce the US’ heat trapping gas emissions.
Meanwhile, Biden has promised to reenter the agreement as soon as possible after his inauguration if he wins the election, and his $2 trillion climate plan calls for the US to reach 100% clean electricity generation by 2035.

Biden intends to rejoin if he wins

If Biden wins, he could submit a notice to the United Nations after his inauguration on January 20 that the US intends to reenter the agreement, and just 30 days later, the US would officially be back in.
When the US joined Paris under the Obama administration, it pledged to cut its emissions by 26 to 28 percent compared to 2005 levels by 2025.
But analysis shows the US is nowhere near hitting those targets.
Experts say getting back in would be the easy part. Charting a path to substantially lower the country’s emissions and — more importantly — meeting those goals, is a bigger challenge.
Under the rules of the accord, countries are expected to enhance their commitments to curb greenhouse gas emissions every five years. Before the pandemic postponed a major UN climate summit, 2020 was supposed to be the next mile marker for countries to increase their pledges.
If the US were to reenter, it would be expected to announce more ambitious reductions to achieve by 2030, and outline detailed plans for how it will hit those goals, according to Andrew Light, a former senior climate official in the Obama administration’s State Department.
Light expects that Biden would no doubt use executive actions and push to include clean energy funding in a new stimulus package next year if he wins the presidency. But beyond that, the results of other 2020 races could again come into play.
Even in a scenario where Democrats maintain control of the House and capture a narrow Senate majority, a possible Biden administration could have trouble passing comprehensive climate legislation without some Republican support.
“That’s what we’ll all be waiting to see,” Light said. “And that will determine how hard it is for Biden to put together a legislative package that can get Americans back to work with clean energy jobs and also demonstrate to the world that we are truly back in.”
Biden would also face the tall task of rebuilding US credibility when it comes to climate action, experts say.
This is now the second time the US has bailed on an international climate agreement after it led the negotiations. The first exit was from the Kyoto Protocol, a previous climate pact joined during the Clinton administration, only to be vacated during George W. Bush’s presidency.
“If Biden wins, he’s going to have to go through a process to rejoin Paris,” Light said. “Part of it will be straightforward, and part of it won’t because the US reputation has already been damaged on this issue.”

Top emitters besides the US remain signed up

If Trump wins reelection and does not reenter the agreement, experts expect to see the US sidelined even further from the international community.
All of the world’s other major superpowers and top greenhouse gas emitters — including China, India, the European Union, the UK, Japan, Russia and Brazil — are among the 189 countries who are still part of the agreement. The US is joining a small minority of non-participants, including Iran, Libya, Iraq, Turkey and a few other small nations.
Domestically, we should expect a continuation of the trends we’ve seen over the last four years, where efforts by states like California and New York to slash emissions come into conflict with the Trump administration’s efforts to rollback regulations, according to Jonathan Pershing, a former special envoy for climate change at the US Department of State during the Obama administration.
“The question is will the federal government preempt or limit states’ capacities to act?” Pershing said. “And there’s every indication that they intend to do that.”
By leaving Paris, Light says the US is also forfeiting a huge economic investment opportunity — estimated to be worth $23 trillion in the 21 top emerging market economies through 2030 alone.
And in purely scientific terms, the US’ absence is a huge blow to the fight to confront global warming.
The US is the world’s second-largest emitter of greenhouse gases, and without the country meaningfully reducing its own emissions and pressuring other nations to set more aggressive goals, it will remain a tall task to achieve net-zero emissions by around mid-century.
The goals of the Paris Agreement are to limit global warming to well below 2°C and pursue efforts to limit it to 1.5°C.
But the worsening climate-fueled disasters of the last few years planet have occurred at barely more than 1°C of warming.
“We used to think … that warming of 2°C was a huge problem, but that if we could stay below that, we could avoid the worst of the damage,” Pershing said.
“We’re now seeing the damages starting today and getting much, much worse. And people increasingly think we’ve got to have a greater degree of urgency and rapid action that they might have thought even as little as four years ago.”